We went on a longer than usual outing today which took us to Paternoster Square, close to St Paul’s Cathedral. I took many photos of which I include a selection here.

Aboard the 153

We started in St John Street where we caught the 153 bus (remembering to wear our face masks, as required by Transport for London!).

The White Bear

We left the bus part way down St John Street and walked from there. The above photo shows the White Bear, a long established pub, dating from no later than the mid-1800s though I do not know whether the building dates from then.

Decorative mouldings

A feature that impressed me was the decorative mouldings. They are complex and beautifully made. I can see that they have recently been cleaned, presumably of an intrusive layer of paint. I hope this indicates that the building is being restored and carefully maintained.

Old warehouse

Many of the buildings along this street are old and built to serve purposes that are no longer required. Traces may remain of their past lives. This building, for example, was probably a warehouse and, if you look carefully, you may be able to see not only the hoist for lifting goods but also the drop-down platform upon which they would rest before being taken inside.

The hoist

This close-up shows the hoist more clearly. Many buildings in the city and the docks area retain these hoists, although in some cases they are later additions for decorative effect.

The Cross Keys Hotel

Though now put to other uses, this building is easily recognized for what it was – a tavern – and even its name can be deduced from the symbols on the pediment. An inn existed here from the late 18th century though the present building is younger than that, probably late Victorian.

The Boar’s Head

Yes, yet another old pub. There is a reason for there being so many along this particular street and also for the fact that so many closed down. We will come to that in a moment. There was a tavern here from the 17th century but as we see it today, this version dates from 1897, as declared on the pediment.

Smithfield Market

Here is the reason for the existence – and subsequent closure – of taverns and inns in St John Street: Smithfield Market. Cattle from all parts of the country used to be driven here along the roads by cattle drovers to be slaghtered and butchered at Smithfield, London’s meat market. Drovers needed places to refresh themselves from the thirst of the dusty roads. Some no doubt also spent in the same way some of the money earned at the market.

The main hall

Fortunately, the gruesome days of animal slaughter are long gone though meat is still traded here. What the building becomes in the future remains to be seen.

Decorative ironwork

It is one if the ironies that a place where horrors were perpetrated is so beautifully decorated.

West Smithfield Garden

We bought a takeaway lunch and ate it in this small but pleasant park called West Smithfield Garden. There were benches in the shade (it was now quite warm in the sun) and not too many people.

Drinking fountain and statue of Peace

In the centre is a large and elaborate drinking fountain, erected in 1873, with a large bronze sculpture representing Peace.

Taxi garden

In the street nearby, stands this curious object, the carcase of a London black cab that has been turned into a public bench with flower boxes. The flowers have all died and withered and apparently no one is looking after it. Will it be left to rust away or will it be removed? Your guess is as good as mine.

Graveyard guard house

This building is part of the Church of the Holy Sepulchre and guards the entrance to its burial ground though, with the closure of London’s cemeteries, it lost its function. It dates from the time when body snatchers could earn good money by stealing fresh corpses and selling them to the medical schools where they were needed for dissection. Guard houses were set up at some burial grounds to prevent the theft of corpses.

Drinking fountain 1867

This prettily designed public drinking fountain bears a date of 1867. Notice the instruction to “replace the cup”.

Drinking fountain cups

This fountain is unusual in that it does still have its cups, two of them, attached by chains. Most other old fountains lack their cups, retaining at most a few inches of broken chain. This fountain has done well to keep its cups right up to the present.

Central Criminal Court

Here we are approaching the Central Criminal Court, better known as the Old Bailey, after the name of the road in which it resides. It is immediately recognisable by its rounded dome topped by a statue of Justice, blindfolded and holding both sword and scales.

Doorway to the Old Bailey

This door is, I assume, for court officials and those having business in court because there is a separate entrance for the public galleries and another for prison vans. Above it are three allegorical figures. The present building dates from 1902.

Paternoster Square

And so we arrived at Paternoster Square, in the shadow, so to speak, of St Paul’s Cathedral. The square is a wide open space where people can stroll or sit on a cafe terrace. There are a number of items of interest here but we will leave them for another day.

Paternoster
Elizabeth Frink

A noteworthy feature of the square is a group sculpture by Elizabeth Frink. Also called Paternoster, it shows a shepherd with a small flock of sheep. The title, especially given the setting near the Cathedral, suggests a religious interpretation but it is sufficiently realistic to be enjoyed for that alone.

From here we walked to the street and a stop where we could board a bus to take us home to Angel.

I wonder whether they missed us at Myddelton’s? 🙂