Hackney and the Regent’s Canal

For today’s ramble we took a bus to Hackney, a lively and interesting London Borough.

Musicians’ mural
Musicians’ mural

This massive mural covering the side of a building is very impressive but is showing its age, not least in the tags that unimaginative vandals have added near the bottom. Fans of the various bands can no doubt recognise their idols among the faces portrayed.

We set off in this direction
We set off in this direction

We had no specific route in mind and so wandered where fancy dictated.

Watching pigeons
Watching pigeons
Photo by Tigger

Our attention was caught by this small boy who was standing quite still, watching the pigeons paddling and drinking in a puddle. Perhaps he will grow up “animal-sensitive” and continue to be intrigued by living creatures. I hope so.

This is not a cafe
This is not a cafe

This may look like a cafe (or even a “caffè”) but in reality it is a painted image like a stage backdrop. The property is up for rent (the projecting sign reads “Under Offer”) but what kind of business will occupy it is so far not revealed..

Terra cotta head
Terra cotta head

There were some benches in the square and on either side of each was a terra cotta head. They had obviously come from a building – presumably demolished – and it was a good idea on the part of the Council to preserve them in this way.

Tall blocks dominate
Tall blocks dominate

As we walked, we saw buildings of different kinds but tall blocks tended to dominate.

Shuttered warehouse
Shuttered warehouse

Older buildings do exist, sometimes singly, sometimes in groups, like this warehouse with shuttered windows, which carry clues to the history of the area in times past.

The Prince of Wales
The Prince of Wales

Back on Kingsland Road, we spied another vestige of the past. The sculpted plumes at either end of the second floor are from the coat of arms of the Prince of Wales, indicating that this is the name of this pub. There was a pub on this site from no later than 1843 but we see it today as it was rebuilt in the 1930s. The pub closed of 2004 and I have no idea what its future will be.

Middleton Road
Middleton Road

We looked down Middleton Road, which passes under s railway bridge and it seemed inviting.

Shops in the arches
Shops in the arches

Then we saw Frederick Place and went to explore it. It is a narrow road running beside the railway line. The railway is on an embankment under which are arches. The relatively small spaces within these can be used for various purposes, some as shops. The only one we saw open was halfway along (where you might be able to see two people). It was a diminutive bicycle shop.

Kingsland Road and minaret
Kingsland Road and minaret

Back in Kingsland Road, we could see a minaret in the distance. This belongs to the Suleymaniye Mosque. We have seen this several times and visited it one Open House weekend but this was as close as we came to it today.

Regent’s Canal
Regent’s Canal

Kingsland Road crosses the Regent’s Canal. In the photo you can see a bridge carrying the same railway line that we met in Frederick Place.

Terrace, Bridge Cafe
Terrace, Bridge Cafe

Beside the canal is a small establishment called, appropriately enough, the Bridge Cafe. It has a proportionately small terrace overlooking the canal.

Spiral staircase
Spiral staircase
Photo by Tigger

Access to the terrace is by a narrow spiral staircase. If you think climbing up the stairs is awkward then going down again is an even more fraught experience! We chose to go down backwards like climbing down a ladder!

Beside the canal
Beside the canal

After our coffee break, we went down onto the tow path of the canal. This is quite narrow in places and care is needed when passing people coming in the opposite direction. This is not helped by the fact that tow paths have been opened to cyclists. They are supposed to give way as necessary to pedestrians but often rush pass without due care and attention. The tow path frequently passes under low bridges where I have to stoop to make my way.

Strange box on a barge
Strange box on a barge

The canal is lined with moored barges converted as dwellings. Some are well kept, others neglected. Some carry a clutter of objects on their decks, even gardens in some cases. On one barge I saw this strange box and do not know what its purpose is, with its two “windows” and its pretty floral painting.

“That’s our bridge”
“That’s our bridge”

When we came in sight of the above bridge, Tigger said “I think that’s our bridge”. And it was. We left the canal by a flight of steps to the street above.

New North Road
New North Road

We reached the street and there was bus stop nearby. I didn’t realise it at first, but this was the New North Road that I had encountered when collecting my parcel (see Fetching the tea).

We had a while to wait but a bus eventually turned up and we began our journey back to the Angel.