Around Upper Street

I had a letter to post and, while there are pillar boxes not far from the tigers’ den, I decided to go to one in Upper Street, as that would make more of a walk for me.

An Angel landmark
An Angel landmark

Though our favourite building is the domed beauty on the corner of Pentonville Road and Islington High Street, this tower, on the former Angel Picture Theatre (now occupied by Starbucks), is also a landmark of which I have become fond.

The Tram Shed
The Tram Shed

This is the former tram shed, which was for many years occupied by antiques stalls until they were evicted – to much protest – and the space rented out to a succession of stores, none of which lasted very long. Recently, Amazon was planning to use it as a fully automated store but apparently, the Council is having second thoughts about granting permission.

Phelps Cottage, 1838
Phelps Cottage, 1838

The High Street, which passes beside the tram shed, makes a left turn to run into Upper Street. In this section is a survival from past times: a two-storey house, bearing over the door, a plaque with the words “Phelps Cottage 1838”. The house is so named, apparently, after one Charles Phelps who lived there. As to who he was and when he lived there, I have no information. The house is Grade II listed.

Formerly the Three Wheatsheaves
Formerly the Three Wheatsheaves

On the other side of Upper Street stands this substantial building. It has housed several different businesses in the time I have lived here, none of which have lasted very long. To be honest, I hadn’t paid it much attention until today when I noticed that part of its old signage has for some reason been revealed. It reads “Barclay Perkins & Co Ltd”.

This enabled me to discover its history. Barclay Perkins owned, and still own, I believe, a string of pubs. This used to be one of theirs. It was called the Three Wheatsheaves and ran from 1889 to 1932. Subsequent tenants have pinned their names on it but the company name was there all along, waiting to be revealed.

Islington Green
Islington Green

I passed by Islington Green, a pleasant garden at the join of Essex Road with Upper Street. It would easy to imagine that this was once the village green. It never was, however, though it is a vestige of the past because it is the last remaining vestige of the local common. I wonder what would happen if you tried grazing cattle on it today!

The Screen on the Green
The Screen on the Green

Like many businesses, this famous cinema, the Screen on the Green, has been closed and in virtual hibernation. May 17th promises a reawakening. Let’s hope nothing happens to frustrate their hopes.

St Mary’s Church, free of scaffolding at last
St Mary’s Church, free of scaffolding at last

St Mary’s Church has been wrapped in scaffolding and builders’ screens for months. I saw today that it is finally free of all encumbrances. The faithful will no doubt also be looking forward to restrictions being lifted, enabling them to attend services.

Islington Fire Station
Islington Fire Station

Islington’s fire station is not very old. It was built in 1993. It has a companion in the Essex Road fire station which used to do duty for both areas. With the – I think over-hasty – closure of police and fire stations, I suppose we can count ourselves lucky that these two have survived. The tower-block fire in Canary Wharf today shows the importance of fire services able to respond quickly to outbreaks.

Florence Tavern, defunct
Florence Tavern, defunct

I stepped briefly off Upper Street into Florence Street. I noticed that there was a lot of traffic for a side street. I think this is perhaps because it is being used as a rat-run between Upper Street and Essex Road. My sympathies go to the inhabitants who have to put up with the noise and pollution from the grid-locked traffic. I noticed the old pub, now closed. It used to be known as the Florence Tavern and existed since at least 1860. It closed almost a decade ago and its days as a pub seem to be over.

Decorative moulding
Decorative moulding

Another dead pub, this one on a corner of Upper Street with Cross Street, is the Old Parr’s Head. It started right at the beginning of the 19th century but closed in 2007. The premises has been used for retail but I don’t know its current status.

No more lunches
No more lunches

This sign embodies the optimism of the pub’s heyday but is now just a sad reminder of past glories. I wonder when the last lunch was served and whether the customer who bought knew it was the last.

The Almeida Theatre
The Almeida Theatre

Rather than return along the same road, I turned up Almeida Street, home to the theatre of the same name. Like pubs and churches, theatres will be looking forward to opening their doors again.

Is there a way out?
Is there a way out?

As you walk up Almeida Street, you might think that it’s a cul de sac and turn down one of the side streets. But hold your nerve and keep going…

Almeida Passage
Almeida Passage

In the corner, obscured by parked cars, is this alley called Almeida Passage. Open to the sky for the first few yards, it then passes through the terrace of houses in Milner Square. I mentioned this square in a recent post and I went to take another look at its central garden.

Milner Square Gardens
Milner Square Gardens

As I mentioned in my previous post, Milner Square Garden is virtually one big play area for children. I did not stay long here but continued along Milner Street to Gibson Square.

Gibson Square squirrel
Gibson Square squirrel

On reaching Gibson Square, I entered the gardens and almost immediately encountered one of the inhabitants, a squirrel. He came by, hoping I had food but went on his way when I proved to be a disappointment.

Gibson Square Gardens
Gibson Square Gardens

I described Gibson Square’s garden and the strange building in it that is really a ventilation shaft for the Underground so this photo will suffice.

Liverpool Road
Liverpool Road

From Gibson Square via Theberton Street, I came out into Liverpool Road which offered a near enough straight path to home.

Cloudesley Place
Cloudesley Place

Nonetheless, I preferred to avoid the main road and follow quieter ones. Accordingly, I entered Cloudesley Place. You may remember me showing you the raised pavement in Liverpool Road with railings to stop you stepping off by accident. There is a raised pavement here as well, though I don’t know the reason for it.

The houses have steps to the door
The houses have steps to the door

Despite the raised pavement, the houses are raised still higher and have to have steps up to the front door. I bet the architects had fun with this arrangement!

Culpeper Park
Culpeper Park

Very soon, I found myself in Cloudesley Road beside Culpeper Park, another familiar landmark if you have followed my blog. This is not far from home and is therefore a good place for me to bid you adieu for today!