‘H’ is for Highgate and Hampstead

This afternoon, we visited two places beginning with ‘H’, Highgate and Hampstead. Another similarity is that both are on hills. Highgate is thought to take its name from a toll gate that was here in ancient times and was literally the “high gate”, though other explanations have been suggested. Hampstead derives from Hamestede, meaning, as is easy to see, “homestead”. But whose homestead? That remains uncertain, though it might possibly refer to a manor house that was once hereabouts.

Aboard the 214 to Highgate
Aboard the 214 to Highgate

Travelling to Highgate from the Angel is easy: just hop on the single-decker 214 bus that terminates at Highgate Village.

Hitherto unvisited alley
Hitherto unvisited alley

We have been to Highgate many times and know it well. Therefore, when we spied this alley that we had never visited before, we of course explored it. Was it interesting? No, not particularly!

St Michael’s Church Highgate
St Michael’s Church Highgate
Photo by Tigger

We emerged in Pond Square which, I imagine, did once contain a pond though, if so, the pond is long gone. Opposite, in a street called South Grove, is the Church of St Michael Highgate.

The Angel Inn
The Angel Inn

Islington does not have a monopoly of angels. These legendary beings are found in other parts of London and Highgate has its own Angel Inn, notable for displaying a headless angel.

Highgate High Street
Highgate High Street

This photo shows what you might call the top end of the High Street, the highest point in Highgate. All directions away from this point lead downhill.

A view from Hampstead Heath
A view from Hampstead Heath

From Highgate, we caught a 210 bus that took us to what I am tempted to call the top of Hampstead. From this point too, all directions lead downhill. We penetrated briefly into Hampstead Heath from where there are good views of London and, of course, of the Heath itself.

Jack Straw’s Castle
Jack Straw’s Castle

At the crossroads at the summit of the hill stands this strange building. It was once a famous pub but those days are gone, presumably for ever, and today it is residential. As far as I know, it has never had any connection with the Jack Straw of history.

The Horse Pond
The Horse Pond

Hampstead has a number of ponds, some of which can be used for bathing. This pond, “at the top of Hampstead”, is the highest. It is sometimes called the Whitestone Pond, after the nearby milestone, but I prefer the old name, Horse Pond, which describes its ancient use in watering horses.

Gate of Fenton House
Gate of Fenton House

We followed some narrow streets off the main route, looking for a particular building. On the way, the glitter of gold caught my eye. It was the gate of Fenton House, originally a 17th century merchant’s house, now owned by he National Trust.

The Holly Bush
The Holly Bush

We found the building we were looking for which was the historic Holly Bush, a Grade II listed 18th century house, now a pub. It did not seem to be open so we continued on our way.

Stepped path to the main road
Stepped path to the main road

We returned to the main road down a stepped path, one of several between the houses in hilly Hampstead.

The Horse ad Groom
The Horse ad Groom

On the main road, we passed another famous pub, the Horse and Groom. It was shut up and silent, quite unlike its glory days. I think it ceased being a pub some years ago. What role it plays now I do not know.

The tube station
The tube station

An important feature of Hampstead is the tube station. Originally called Heath Street, it was renamed Hampstead, no doubt to avoid confusion. It is London’s deepest tube station.

Looking down Hampstead High Street
Looking down Hampstead High Street

The High Street is a main thoroughfare and busy with traffic. We walked down it, hoping to find somewhere to sit and enjoy a coffee.

A view from the terrace
A view from the terrace

As you see, we found a cafe with a terrace where we could sit and watch the world go by while we enjoyed coffee and hot buttered toast!

A Penfold posting box
A Penfold posting box

We crossed the road and found this Victorian post box designed by Penfold. Sadly, it is no longer in use. It bears a notice dating it to 1870 and stating that it has been retained in place as a historical monument.

Exploring the side streets
Exploring the side streets

We spent some time exploring streets off the main road – this one is called Gayton Road. I imagine it is quite a pleasant area to live in.

Cattle trough
Cattle trough

We discovered a cattle trough that was new to me. It bore the name of the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association but no date. Neither was there a personal dedication as is sometimes the case, so its precise age is difficult to know.

South End Green fountain
South End Green fountain

We descended to Pond Street where we intended to catch a bus to start our journey home. I made a detour round South End Green where there is a small enclosed area or small public garden. Its most notable feature is this ornate fountain dedicated in the 1880s by a Miss Crump in memory of her cousin and her uncle who died in 1872 and 1880, respectively.

Old Polytechnic building, Kentish Town
Old Polytechnic building, Kentish Town

The bus brought us to Kentish Town where we changed to a 214 that carried us back to the Angel. While waiting for the 214, I took a photo of the building (wrapped in builders’ screens) where I worked for a number of years. It was then part of a polytechnic but later became residential. I don’t know what it will become next.

On tthe bus home
On tthe bus home