This afternoon, we visited two places beginning with ‘H’, Highgate and Hampstead. Another similarity is that both are on hills. Highgate is thought to take its name from a toll gate that was here in ancient times and was literally the “high gate”, though other explanations have been suggested. Hampstead derives from Hamestede, meaning, as is easy to see, “homestead”. But whose homestead? That remains uncertain, though it might possibly refer to a manor house that was once hereabouts.

Aboard the 214 to Highgate

Travelling to Highgate from the Angel is easy: just hop on the single-decker 214 bus that terminates at Highgate Village.

Hitherto unvisited alley

We have been to Highgate many times and know it well. Therefore, when we spied this alley that we had never visited before, we of course explored it. Was it interesting? No, not particularly!

St Michael’s Church Highgate
Photo by Tigger

We emerged in Pond Square which, I imagine, did once contain a pond though, if so, the pond is long gone. Opposite, in a street called South Grove, is the Church of St Michael Highgate.

The Angel Inn

Islington does not have a monopoly of angels. These legendary beings are found in other parts of London and Highgate has its own Angel Inn, notable for displaying a headless angel.

Highgate High Street

This photo shows what you might call the top end of the High Street, the highest point in Highgate. All directions away from this point lead downhill.

A view from Hampstead Heath

From Highgate, we caught a 210 bus that took us to what I am tempted to call the top of Hampstead. From this point too, all directions lead downhill. We penetrated briefly into Hampstead Heath from where there are good views of London and, of course, of the Heath itself.

Jack Straw’s Castle

At the crossroads at the summit of the hill stands this strange building. It was once a famous pub but those days are gone, presumably for ever, and today it is residential. As far as I know, it has never had any connection with the Jack Straw of history.

The Horse Pond

Hampstead has a number of ponds, some of which can be used for bathing. This pond, “at the top of Hampstead”, is the highest. It is sometimes called the Whitestone Pond, after the nearby milestone, but I prefer the old name, Horse Pond, which describes its ancient use in watering horses.

Gate of Fenton House

We followed some narrow streets off the main route, looking for a particular building. On the way, the glitter of gold caught my eye. It was the gate of Fenton House, originally a 17th century merchant’s house, now owned by he National Trust.

The Holly Bush

We found the building we were looking for which was the historic Holly Bush, a Grade II listed 18th century house, now a pub. It did not seem to be open so we continued on our way.

Stepped path to the main road

We returned to the main road down a stepped path, one of several between the houses in hilly Hampstead.

The Horse ad Groom

On the main road, we passed another famous pub, the Horse and Groom. It was shut up and silent, quite unlike its glory days. I think it ceased being a pub some years ago. What role it plays now I do not know.

The tube station

An important feature of Hampstead is the tube station. Originally called Heath Street, it was renamed Hampstead, no doubt to avoid confusion. It is London’s deepest tube station.

Looking down Hampstead High Street

The High Street is a main thoroughfare and busy with traffic. We walked down it, hoping to find somewhere to sit and enjoy a coffee.

A view from the terrace

As you see, we found a cafe with a terrace where we could sit and watch the world go by while we enjoyed coffee and hot buttered toast!

A Penfold posting box

We crossed the road and found this Victorian post box designed by Penfold. Sadly, it is no longer in use. It bears a notice dating it to 1870 and stating that it has been retained in place as a historical monument.

Exploring the side streets

We spent some time exploring streets off the main road – this one is called Gayton Road. I imagine it is quite a pleasant area to live in.

Cattle trough

We discovered a cattle trough that was new to me. It bore the name of the Metropolitan Drinking Fountain and Cattle Trough Association but no date. Neither was there a personal dedication as is sometimes the case, so its precise age is difficult to know.

South End Green fountain

We descended to Pond Street where we intended to catch a bus to start our journey home. I made a detour round South End Green where there is a small enclosed area or small public garden. Its most notable feature is this ornate fountain dedicated in the 1880s by a Miss Crump in memory of her cousin and her uncle who died in 1872 and 1880, respectively.

Old Polytechnic building, Kentish Town

The bus brought us to Kentish Town where we changed to a 214 that carried us back to the Angel. While waiting for the 214, I took a photo of the building (wrapped in builders’ screens) where I worked for a number of years. It was then part of a polytechnic but later became residential. I don’t know what it will become next.

On tthe bus home

After lunch we did go out again. As predicted, I shed a layer of clothing and was still warm enough throughout. The sun, though, obviously thought it had done enough by shining during the morning, and hid behind clouds for the most of the afternoon.

Speeding down Rosebery Avenue

In St John Street, we caught a 341 bus which terminates at Waterloo Station. We occupied front seats upstairs from where I took the above photo as the bus sped down Rosebery Avenue.

Approaching Holborn Viaduct

A few minutes later, I took this photo as we approached Holborn Viaduct, a handsome iron bridge that carries one road over another.

In Fleet Street

Here we are in Fleet Street, named after the River Fleet that runs by here but is now covered over. The name “Fleet Street” was once synonymous with “the press” or, as we would say now, “the media”. All the national newspapers maintained a presence here but most are long gone to more commodious accommodation in areas such as Wapping.

Now in Strand

Fleet Street becomes (the) Strand at a certain point, a famous street that contains, among other notables, the Royal Courts of Justice.

Colourful pub in Lower Marsh

We left the bus at its final stop opposite Waterloo Station and walked to a nearby street with the picturesque name of Lower Marsh where the colourful pub in the photo is to be found. Lower March can be an interesting street but it was boringly quiet today.

Upper Marsh

Lower Marsh leads to a street called Upper Marsh, which is logical, at least. It starts as a tunnel under the railway but then becomes an normal street open to the sky.

Blue pillar box in honour of the NHS

We found ourselves near St Thomas’s Hospital. On the pavement in front of it is a pillar box. It is in use like any other pillar box but has been painted blue with the words “Thank you NHS”, in honour of a service that, overwhelmed at times, nonetheless served us unstintingly throughout the pandemic at a cost of NHS workers’ lives lost to the disease. This debt can never be adequately repaid.

The Thames and Parliament

We reached the Thames here where there is a view of the Houses of Parliament.

Riverside cafe

Reaching Lambeth, we stopped for refreshments at this riverside cafe.

Part of Lambeth Palace

On the opposite side of the road is the sprawling collection of buildings that constitute Lambeth Palace, the official residence of the Archbishop of Canterbury. Parts of it date to the 15th century.

Walking along the enbankment

We started to walk along the embankment beside the Thames. Do you notice anything about the wall on the right?

The National Covid Memorial Wall

From a distance, the wall appears pink. This is because it is covered with millions of red hearts, each representing someone who has died from Covid. It is called The National Covid Memorial Wall and is very long so I can only show a pathetically small section of it. Many hearts are inscribed with the names of people who died, testimonials left by those who love them. Facing Parliament, perhaps it will stir a few consciences. (No, I don’t think so, either.)

Westminster Bridge and tower of Big Ben

We reached Westminster Bridge where can be seen possibly the world’s most famous clock, known universally as Big Ben after the name of its largest bell. It is currently wrapped in scaffolding undergoing renovation.

Tunnel under the bridge

We crossed passed under the bridge by this rather insalubrious-looking tunnel.

The London Eye

Continuing along the embankment beyond the bridge, we came to the famous wheel known as the London Eye, currently closed. I have never been on it and have no plans to ride it when it starts up again.

Avenue

We left the river and the Eye by going along this avenue of trees.

Not the stairway to Heaven

To return to Waterloo Station, where we would catch our bus home, we needed to climb this staircase of 37 steps. After a long walk, this was not altogether welcome!

Another tunnel

At the top of the staircase, one passes through the buildings by a tunnel. The shape you see on the right is a tent inhabited by one of London’s many homeless people.

Waterloo Station

We reached Waterloo Station and went out through the exit nearest our bus stop.

The Wellington

Our stop is opposite this handsome pub called the Wellington, which seems awkwardly caught between two railway bridges.

On the bus home

The bus was not long in coming and we were carried speedily back to the Angel. We stayed downstairs this time as we had climbed enough stairs for one day!

You can always trust the British weather to do the unexpected. After several days of grey and chilly conditions, we now have sunshine and temperatures of 18-19°C. Not that I am ungrateful. I hate the cold and welcome the improvement.

Sunshine in Baron Street

Whatever the weather, come rain or shine, Sunday is shopping day, and so we set off as usual at 11am. Despite the bright conditions, I followed the old saying “Ne’er cast a clout till May be out”, and dressed warmly except for swapping my winter coat for a lighter one. I’m glad to say that I was a little too warm. I shall remove a few layers (like a snake shedding its old skin) when we go out again later.

Lively Chapel Market

In Chapel Market, the stalls were out in force, making a fine display in the morning sunlight. It’s beginning to be harder to remember the miserable appearance of the market during lockdown. Let’s hope we have reached the end of that difficult time and that there will be no relapse.

Sainsbury’s – not too busy

Sainsbury’s was about as busy as it usually is on Sunday morning, meaning we had very little difficulty surfing the shelves for our purchases. Working out what you intend to buy before you enter the store also helps.

We didn’t have too long to wait at the checkout, either. The checkouts at Sainsbury’s, as in other shops, are enclosed by transparent screens. This is sensible if a tad claustrophobic. What will happen “after Covid”, I wonder? I suspect that screens in shops and other businesses will remain in place for some time, possibly permanently. I have seen suggestions that masks could also continue in use, for example during flu or other epidemics. Learning from experience is a valuable tool in facing future problems.

Our coffee oasis

As usual, I took the cup holder and hurried ahead to Mercer’s for our coffee reward. Today’s coffees completed a loyalty card: free coffee next time!

As I write this, we are at home, the shopping has been put away and we are having a little rest before lunchtime. What shall we do this afternoon? Whatever it is, I shall be sure to let you know!

As the title indicates, conditions today are not ideal for outdoor activities. The sky is cloudy, it has rained and is threatening to do so again. To start with then, we went on a short outing to fetch coffee. We may decide to venture out again later.

Miniature pansies

The conditions being what they were, I photographed these colourful flowers in a window box, hoping their bright colours would add cheer to the situation.

Electra speeds by

If the flowers started to cheer me up, a familiar sight in the square helped further. Yes, we were in time to see “Electra” (as we now call her) go speeding past on her laps round the church. With her bright red top and blond hair streaming in the wind, she is a sight to behold. She doesn’t just trundle round but puts real effort into pushing those pedals.

Flowers on the doorstep

Several houses in the square have these pretty little white flowers growing up each side of the steps to the front door. They died back somewhat during the winter but have started to grow and flower again. Some householders have removed them but I enjoy seeing them where they still grow.

Grey clouds, green trees

I liked the contrast between the new spring-green foliage and the brooding grey of the clouds.

Foliage gradually hiding the church

In this view of Myddelton Square Gardens, the church is still visible, like someone peering between the heads in a crowd in order to be visible in the photo. As the trees put on their summer costumes, the church finds it harder to remain visible.

The same number as the year

We stopped to look at the view through these open doors that are usually closed when we go past. It’s no doubt the old carriage entrance. What caught my attention, though, was the number, written in words. The entrance serves numbers 20 and 21 but they have written it as a single numeral, twentytwentyone, which just happens to be the number of the current year. Was that done on purpose?

Glowing with colour

At one house, there were three window boxes, all very beautiful and I selected one as a sample. The flowers seemed to glow despite the dull light. If I needed further encouragement to be cheerful, this window box provided it.

Shortly, we reached Myddelton’s, collected our coffee and made for home, where I am writing this. However, Tigger has just proposed a plan for a second outing. I will add it to this preliminary account in due course.

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Down a busy Pentonville Road

Following Tigger’s plan, we set off down a busy Pentonville Road in the direction of King’s Cross. In addition to this morning’s dull, cloudy sky, there was now a gusty wind that caused me to attach my hat-lock, just in case.

St Mary of Zion

At the bottom end of the road we passed by this church. Called St Mary of Zion, it is currently an Ethiopian Orthodox church.

The Lighthouse and tower of St Pancras Station

Near the two stations, King’s Cross and St Pancras, is a nightclub cum music venue. Years ago, the then owners built a folly, in the shape of a lighthouse, on the roof. Time passed and the lighthouse became an accepted part of the scenery, so much so, that when the block was rebuilt recently, the developers were required to preserve the lighthouse in its original style and position.

The Great Northern Hotel

People often wonder why there are two mainline railway stations on opposite sides of a not very wide road. They were built, at the beginning of railway history, by rival railway companies competing for the lucrative London trade. These days, they each serve their own catalogue of routes and cooperate rather than compete with one another. The Great Northern Hotel was built to cater tor customers from King’s Cross but these days serves a wider clientele.

Where’s Tweetie Pie?

This giant bird cage stands near King’s Cross Station. It lights up at night and has contained a number of transient amusements but is currently empty. When first it was installed, it included a swing whose supports are still visible – I know, because I had a swing on it!

A bit too crowded for my tastes

With the cessation goods traffic on the railway, the hinterland of King’s Cross Station, previously given over the warehouses, has been redeveloped and now contains a mixture of residential and office accommodation and entertainment venues. Thither we went though it was a little too crowded for my tastes.

Notes coffee bar

Tigger’s plan was for us to go to Notes for coffee and cake. We had been here previously and knew we had to sit outside but as there was an awning, that was acceptable.

Menu with QR order code

On each table is a card with a QR code. Click on this code with your smart phone and it produces a menu from which you can order your items and pay for them electronically. The QR code includes your table number so that a waiter can deliver your order to you.

The cake arrives

We ordered carrot cake and coffee. The cake arrived first, wrapped in a plastic and paper envelope.

Traditional cups

The coffee arrived soon after, served in traditional cups, fortunately.

I couldn’t help reflecting how different this mode of service is from pre-Covid norms. We barely exchanged words with a human being (just “Thank you”, in fact) and no one touched anything resembling money or, for that matter, a payment machine. One thing that Covid has done is to speed the adoption of electronic ordering and payment systems and I can only suppose that these will continue in use when things return to whatever simulacrum of “normality” replaces pandemic regulations.

King’s Cross Departures

On our way back we crossed through the Departures hall of King’s Cross Station. As there were relatively few people about, it was a good occasion for taking photos of the revolutionary design which supports a roof over a large area but without any pillars acting as obstacles to movement. It also possesses a certain beauty, enhanced at times by coloured lights.

The main “tree”

We went onto the upper level from where there is a good view of the tree-like support structure.

Tower of St Pancras Station

We crossed the open courtyard in front of King’s Cross Station. From here you have a good view of the tower of the beautiful St Pancras Station. Yes, I photographed it the other day, and many times before that, but it’s always worth photographing. Well, that’s my opinion, anyway!

Aboard a number 30 bus

As we had been good (subjective opinion, I know!) we decided we could take the bus up the hill and so caught a number 30 which delivered us close to home.

Now we have supper and a pleasant evening to look forward to and, no doubt, other outings tomorrow.

I had a letter to post and, while there are pillar boxes not far from the tigers’ den, I decided to go to one in Upper Street, as that would make more of a walk for me.

An Angel landmark

Though our favourite building is the domed beauty on the corner of Pentonville Road and Islington High Street, this tower, on the former Angel Picture Theatre (now occupied by Starbucks), is also a landmark of which I have become fond.

The Tram Shed

This is the former tram shed, which was for many years occupied by antiques stalls until they were evicted – to much protest – and the space rented out to a succession of stores, none of which lasted very long. Recently, Amazon was planning to use it as a fully automated store but apparently, the Council is having second thoughts about granting permission.

Phelps Cottage, 1838

The High Street, which passes beside the tram shed, makes a left turn to run into Upper Street. In this section is a survival from past times: a two-storey house, bearing over the door, a plaque with the words “Phelps Cottage 1838”. The house is so named, apparently, after one Charles Phelps who lived there. As to who he was and when he lived there, I have no information. The house is Grade II listed.

Formerly the Three Wheatsheaves

On the other side of Upper Street stands this substantial building. It has housed several different businesses in the time I have lived here, none of which have lasted very long. To be honest, I hadn’t paid it much attention until today when I noticed that part of its old signage has for some reason been revealed. It reads “Barclay Perkins & Co Ltd”.

This enabled me to discover its history. Barclay Perkins owned, and still own, I believe, a string of pubs. This used to be one of theirs. It was called the Three Wheatsheaves and ran from 1889 to 1932. Subsequent tenants have pinned their names on it but the company name was there all along, waiting to be revealed.

Islington Green

I passed by Islington Green, a pleasant garden at the join of Essex Road with Upper Street. It would easy to imagine that this was once the village green. It never was, however, though it is a vestige of the past because it is the last remaining vestige of the local common. I wonder what would happen if you tried grazing cattle on it today!

The Screen on the Green

Like many businesses, this famous cinema, the Screen on the Green, has been closed and in virtual hibernation. May 17th promises a reawakening. Let’s hope nothing happens to frustrate their hopes.

St Mary’s Church, free of scaffolding at last

St Mary’s Church has been wrapped in scaffolding and builders’ screens for months. I saw today that it is finally free of all encumbrances. The faithful will no doubt also be looking forward to restrictions being lifted, enabling them to attend services.

Islington Fire Station

Islington’s fire station is not very old. It was built in 1993. It has a companion in the Essex Road fire station which used to do duty for both areas. With the – I think over-hasty – closure of police and fire stations, I suppose we can count ourselves lucky that these two have survived. The tower-block fire in Canary Wharf today shows the importance of fire services able to respond quickly to outbreaks.

Florence Tavern, defunct

I stepped briefly off Upper Street into Florence Street. I noticed that there was a lot of traffic for a side street. I think this is perhaps because it is being used as a rat-run between Upper Street and Essex Road. My sympathies go to the inhabitants who have to put up with the noise and pollution from the grid-locked traffic. I noticed the old pub, now closed. It used to be known as the Florence Tavern and existed since at least 1860. It closed almost a decade ago and its days as a pub seem to be over.

Decorative moulding

Another dead pub, this one on a corner of Upper Street with Cross Street, is the Old Parr’s Head. It started right at the beginning of the 19th century but closed in 2007. The premises has been used for retail but I don’t know its current status.

No more lunches

This sign embodies the optimism of the pub’s heyday but is now just a sad reminder of past glories. I wonder when the last lunch was served and whether the customer who bought knew it was the last.

The Almeida Theatre

Rather than return along the same road, I turned up Almeida Street, home to the theatre of the same name. Like pubs and churches, theatres will be looking forward to opening their doors again.

Is there a way out?

As you walk up Almeida Street, you might think that it’s a cul de sac and turn down one of the side streets. But hold your nerve and keep going…

Almeida Passage

In the corner, obscured by parked cars, is this alley called Almeida Passage. Open to the sky for the first few yards, it then passes through the terrace of houses in Milner Square. I mentioned this square in a recent post and I went to take another look at its central garden.

Milner Square Gardens

As I mentioned in my previous post, Milner Square Garden is virtually one big play area for children. I did not stay long here but continued along Milner Street to Gibson Square.

Gibson Square squirrel

On reaching Gibson Square, I entered the gardens and almost immediately encountered one of the inhabitants, a squirrel. He came by, hoping I had food but went on his way when I proved to be a disappointment.

Gibson Square Gardens

I described Gibson Square’s garden and the strange building in it that is really a ventilation shaft for the Underground so this photo will suffice.

Liverpool Road

From Gibson Square via Theberton Street, I came out into Liverpool Road which offered a near enough straight path to home.

Cloudesley Place

Nonetheless, I preferred to avoid the main road and follow quieter ones. Accordingly, I entered Cloudesley Place. You may remember me showing you the raised pavement in Liverpool Road with railings to stop you stepping off by accident. There is a raised pavement here as well, though I don’t know the reason for it.

The houses have steps to the door

Despite the raised pavement, the houses are raised still higher and have to have steps up to the front door. I bet the architects had fun with this arrangement!

Culpeper Park

Very soon, I found myself in Cloudesley Road beside Culpeper Park, another familiar landmark if you have followed my blog. This is not far from home and is therefore a good place for me to bid you adieu for today!