The new railway line officially called the Elizabeth Line – and more popularly, the Lizard Line – has opened at last. We thought that we would take a look at it and try it out.

Myddelton’s deli

Outside the deli

We managed to grab a table outside. The weather is cloudy-sunny, warm when the sun shines, cool when clouded.

Farringdon Station

We chose the relatively nearby Farringdon Station as our entry point to the Elizabeth Line. The combined station for the national railway and the Elizabeth Line is a new station opposite the existing tube station.

Entering the station

The station looks and smells new but apart from that is like any other railway station, though I did notice an odour of stagnant water everywhere.

Down the escalator

Access to the new line, as to the tube, is by descending a long escalator.

Signposted passageways

This delivers you to the inevitable tunnel-passageways with signposts. All very clean and modern; also dull and boring.

The westbound platform

On reaching the platform, if you have not previously travelled on the Jubilee Line, you might wonder where the trains are. Then you may notice the pairs of doors at regular intervals. When the train arrives, its doors match the positions of these platform doors.

Synchronised doors

When the train doors open, the platform doors are synchronised with them and open too.

Doors closing

Similarly, when the train in ready to depart, both sets of doors close together.

This safety feature is no doubt intended to prevent the Elizabeth Line emulating the Underground as a place of suicide. Figures for 2013-7 show a rate of 25 to 35 suicides per annum on the London Underground.

Side benches

The trains have side benches like tube trains but…

Transverse seats

…they also have transverse seats, like an earlier generation of tube trains. These are in groups of four where two pairs face one another. The upholstery was designed specially for the Elizabeth Line.

Finding the way out

On arriving at your destination, there are the same passageways to negotiate and…

Up the escalator

…the same escalator to ride back up to the surface. If ever you forgot where you were, you would have a job working out which station you were in as they all look the same.

Elizabeth Line roundel

Like the Underground, the Elizabeth Line has a “roundel” as its symbol but with its own unique colour which is officially described as “purple” (the royal colour of the ill-fated Byzantine Empire!), but which I would call “mauve”.

The Cabin, Paddington

We travelled back and forth a few times between Farringdon and Paddington (noting that a number of stations are still not open) and exited at the latter station, going to the Upper Level for coffee in a bar called The Cabin.

Walking through Paddington Station

Afterwards, we made our way through the busy railway station to Praed Street.

Bus stop, Praed Street

We went to the bus stop to catch a bus for home. The stop has been moved from its usual position while building work takes place. The pavement is narrower here leading to a crowded environment and a scramble for buses.

Aboard the 205

We boarded a number 205 bus for the Angel.

Cafe Sizzles

For lunch, we went to one of our favouites, Cafe Sizzles in Chapel Market.

Lunch!
Photo by Tigger

As usual, they brought us our tea without our having to ask for it. As for the food, who had what is left as an exercise for the reader! 🙂

Like most public projects, the Elizabeth Line arrived late and over-budget. Despite its late opening, some stations are still not available for use. (As the train speeds through these, one sees that their roundels bear the phrase “OPENING SOON” instead of the station’s name.)

What is the service like to use? Pretty much like any of the other London suburban lines. Though physically it is different in detail from the others, its family resemblance makes it boringly similar. Then again, that’s probably an asset, as it makes it easy and reassuring to use. How useful the line will be, whether for London as a whole or for individual users, will become apparent in the months ahead.

This is our last day in Brighton and so, of course, the weather is sunny and warm just as we would have wished it to be on all the other days.

Old Steine

This is one side of the Old Steine, looking towards the YHA, where we have been staying. Our train departs at 15:16 so we have until lunchtime to continue enjoying Brighton.

The climbing cat

Near the hotel is this black cat climbing up the side of a house. Not a real cat, of course but a china one with a story to tell.

Redroaster

For breakfast we went to Redroaster in St James’s Street. We had been here before (see Brighton and Kemp Town but it has changed and impressed us less favourably this time. Perhaps it has changed ownership.

Coffee and croissants
Photo by Tigger

We had our usual coffee and croissants.

The War Memorial

We passed by the Grade II listed War Memorial with its unusual pool and fountain. Gulls congregate here as it provides them with non-salty water for drinking and bathing.

Royal Pavilion

We returned to Old Steine to wait for a bus. While waiting, I took another picture of the fascinating Royal Pavilion. We didn’t go in on this trip but the beautiful and exotic interior is worth seeing.

Aboard the 5

We boarded a number 5 bus which took us along London Road to what was in my day called the Rookery but is now called the Preston Rock Garden.

The Rock Garden

It was created in 1934-6 but has always been part of “my” Brighton. I loved coming here as a child.

Rocky paths and steps

Filled with an immense variety of plants, shrubs and trees, it rises steeply from road level via rocky paths and steps.

Stepping stone pond

My favourite feature was, and still is, the pond with rough cut stepping stones. Crossing it when I was a child seemed a bold adventure. Today’s crossing was hardly less exciting!

Looking across to Preston Park

We sat for a while beside the pond. From here, looking across the pond and London Road, one can see the larger Preston Park.

Artist at work

While we sat enjoying the peaceful atmosphere, an artist came by

Orange poppies, Preston Park

We crossed the road to Preston Park where I photographed these bright orange poppies. Here we caught a bus back to Old Steine.

Brighton Museum

We went into the grounds of the Royal Pavilion and entered the Prince Regent’s stables, aka Brighton Museum. (Residents of the city are admitted free but visitors pay £7.50 for a ticket that is valid for one year.)

Faces in porcelain

The museum tells you about Brighton’s history but also covers a lot of other topics. There is a programme of special exhibitions as well.

Art gallery

The museum is also the city art gallery. Works displayed are by both local and internationally famous artists.

Royal Pavilion Gardens

We walked out through the lovely Royal Pavilion Gardens and made our way back to the hotel. We had already checked out but had left our luggage there till later. Now we had to collect it.

Goodbye to our hotel

We left the hotel for the last time. The canopy says “Royal York” but it is really run by the YHA. That explains the oddities such as no towels unless you hire them.

We caught a bus to the station. Now that we have our luggage with us, this curtails our activity somewhat. We will have to wait patiently until it’s time for our train.

Belgian Chips

One way to wait patiently is to have lunch! Near the station is an outlet of Belgian Chips. So we had chips for lunch, Belgian style chips – with mayonnaise, naturally!

Preparing the chips

Chips with mayo
Photo by Tigger

The chips are served in a cardboard cone with a wooden fork. You can choose salt, vinegar and mayo, any of these or none. We found a public bench near the shop and perched there to eat our chips. We disposed of the detritus in the shop’s waste bin.

Brighton Station

Afterwards, we went into the railway station and to its branch of Pret A Manger for drinks (coffee for Tigger, tea for me). We sat outside Pret, watching activity around us in the station. We had about an hour and a half till train time.

This gave me time to reflect on this visit to my old hometown. I have enjoyed our stay more than I expected I would and felt “at home” despite the long years since I lived here. Perhaps because I grew up here, Brighton is a part of who I am and always will be.

Joining our train

At 15:00, our train was ready so we went aboard. It is one of the twelve-carriage trains, showing how popular this route is. Not for nothing is Brighton known as “London by the sea”. Every time I return and listen to people talking, I am struck by how the local accent is that of London and not that of Sussex.

Aboard the train

We boarded the train and found seats easily enough. The journey should take no more than about an hour and twenty minutes. The first station we pass through is Preston Park, where we went this morning. Memories…

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EL&N

The train duly delivered us to St Pancras International and here we made a little pause at EL&N for coffee. And yes, the Eurostar queue was still winding slowly past as we sipped our coffee. While they were just starting on their journey, we were reaching the end of ours.

Aboard the 214

Having finished our coffee, we left the station and reached the bus stop at the same time as a 214. We went aboard and it carried us up the hill to the Angel and home.

Our Brighton adventure is ended but we still have the weekend to ourselves!

It looks to be another day of uncertain weather though rain seems to be off the menu fortunately.

The Mock Turtle Tea Room

For breakfast, today we tried the Mock Turtle Tea Room in Pool Valley. They have a good list of teas and I chose my favourite, Russian Caravan.

Old Steine

Then we went to Old Steine – that “stoney ground” where the fishermen once spread their nets to dry – to catch a bus,

Aboard the Coastliner

We boarded a Coastliner bus and set off along Western Road, after…

The Clock Tower

…passing my favourite, the (Jubilee) Clock Tower.

Worthing

After a longish ride we left the bus in Worthing. Worthing has a shingle beach, as is general in the southeast, and a pier.

Nearly at the pier

There was a gale-force wind blowing that made things uncomfortable.

Entering the pier

A view from the pier looking west

Looking east

The lea side

We walked along the pier on the east side where there was some shelter from the wind.

Looking back to shore

With a last look back at the beach we entered the pier’s cafe called Perch on the Pier.

View from the upper level

We obtained a table on the upper level,

Cake and coffee and tea

Rambling through the streets

Leaving the pier, we went rambling through the streets.

The Royal Arcade

We visited the Royal Arcade, opened 1925, renovated 1999.

Montague Street

We walked along the pedestrian-only Montague Street, a main shopping artery.

The bus stop, Marine Paradeq

Though Worthing has a few interesting features, it didn’t impress me greatly and I was happy to go to Marine Parade and the stop for the Coastliner back the way we had come.

Aboard the Coastliner

The only seats available were at the back of the bus.

Shoreham Lighthouse
Photo by Tigger

When the bus arrived at Shoreham-by-Sea, we decided to stop for a while there. Shoreham stands where the River Adur meets the sea forming Shoreham harbour. Shoreham is well worth a visit and we have been here several times to explore its interesting features. Today’s was only a short visit, though. Tigger photographed the unusual Shoreham Lighthouse (1832) from the bus.

The Factory Shop

We had a look round the Factory Shop and nearly bought something but not quite!

The Crown and Anchor

We admired – and photographed the Crown and Anchor pub with its wooden sculpture of an old-time seafarer.

The Co-operative

There was a Co-operative store near the bus stop and so we went in and bought food for our supper tonight. The store is literally just behind the bus stop shelter, hence the narrow angle of the photo.

Aboard the Coastliner

The Coastliner bus arrived and was fairly full. We sat in the middle downstairs so I took a photo through the side windows. We are passing the harbour where the River Adur mixes its waters with those of the English Channel.

The bus dropped us off almost at the door of our hotel. After the cloudy and blustery day, it is a sunny evening with an almost clear blue sky, as you can see in this photo from our bedroom window:

The view from our hotel window

It’s s grey, cloudy day today with s continual threat of rain. There is also s gusty wind making it feel chilly.

Crêpe Affaire

For breakfast, we went to Crêpe Affaire, making a change from our usual.

Preparing the crêpes

Preparing the crêpes…

My crêpe is served

…and here comes mine!

Aboard the 12X

We boarded a 12X (‘X’ for “Express”) bus heading east.

Passing through the Southdowns National Park

We passed through towns and villages but also through rolling green countryside, including the Southdowns National Park.

Down the hill to Eastbourne

We at last came down the long hill into Eastbourne. Like a younger sibling, Esstbourne languishes in the shadow of Brighton but to those that know and love it, this genteel towns has charms of its own. Some prefer its quieter demeanour to Brighton’s livelier spirit.

Eastbourne Railway Station

The bus carried us past the railway station (which we often use to visit the town) and…

Revamped Hyde Gardens

…dropped us in Hyde Gardens, in the heart of the shopping area. We were somewhat surprised because it has been completely revamped since our last visit and a one-way system installed. I find the black and white tiling rather hard on the eyes.

Street market

There was a street market in progress and so we went for a look. And yes, I actually bought something! My old handbag was in a state because the lining had come adrift and all the zips had stopped working. Things would end up in the wrong places making it hard to find what I wanted, especially if I was in a hurry. I at last found one I thought I could live with and bought it. So far, it seems perfect for the job.

Coffee Republic

We went into Coffee Republic to take refreshment and to move everything from my old bag into my new one, being carefully to leave nothing behind.

Aboard the bus to Seaford

We then caught a bus to Seaford. Why Seaford? Well, it was somewhere we had not explored before and going there was taking us in the right direction – i.e. back towards Brighton.

Cross Way Methodist Church

The bus dropped us here, on the main road near the Cross Way Methodist Church.

Seaford, Broad Street

We walked down Broad Street, looking to see what there was to see.

Chloe’s 1940s Cafe

All in all, the most interesting thing we could think of to do was to have lunch. For this we went to Chloe’s 1940s Cafe.

Wartime memorabilia

As the name suggests, the cafe is decorated with WWII memorabilia and songs from that period play over loudspeakers. Staff dress is also suitably styled. The food was OK. I don’t know whether this was part of the theme but the cafe accepts cash only. Unfortunately, 2022 prices are charged, not 1940s prices.

High Street

Afterwards, we went for a ramble around town. This is the High Street, no doubt once the centre of town but now feeling rather forgotten.

Victorian drinking fountain

We discovered this rather strange drinking fountain like no other I have seen if this period. The inscription tells us that it was erected in celebration of Queen Victoria’s 50 years on the throne, that is, in 1887.

The Little Theatre

Seaford has a little theatre and it is called, appropriately enough, the Little Theatre. I assume the actors are normal size and not puppets like those of Islington’s Little Angel Theatre.

Church of St Leonard and St Luke

It may seem perverse to visit Seaford and not go down to the sea. The grey and chilly weather was one disincentive, perhaps. Anyway, we saw a Brighton bus at the stop and ran for it.

Passing Roedean School

This bus was not an ‘X’ and stopped at regular bus stops along the way, making for a slower journey. Not that it mattered as there was plenty see from our upstairs windows. (In the photo we are passing the famous Roedean School.)

North Street

Arriving in Brighton, we stayed on the bus to the stop in North Street because we intended to go shopping for our supper.

The Co-operative

For a change, we did our shopping at the Co-operative supermarket (or “Co-operativ”, according to their shop sign). The result is much the same except for the different name on any “own-brand” products.

On the day we arrived here, as we were settling down for the night, there came a hammering on our door. The room below ours had water coming in through the ceiling and our shower unit was the suspect. We said that we had not used the shower yet and this was enough to send the accusers away.

Today, however, we were asked if we would be kind enough to move from our room to the room next door so that the leak could be thoroughly investigated. We agreed, of course.

We have a bay window
Photo by Tigger

We have done rather well by the exchange because we have a much nicer room. The bedroom has a bay window with a view of the sea and the bathroom is palatial – it has a bathtub as well as a shower!

Are we surprised by this turn of events? Actually, no: we had water leak problems in two other hotels, in one of which we were moved to another room as we were here. Water leaks seem to follow us around!

I awoke this morning to sunshine brightening the window but by the time I was up and about the sun had hidden itself again. The forecast is cloudy with rain this afternoon. So much for “red sky at night, shepherds’ delight”.

My first job was to check out the shower. Well, it works, at least, but there is nowhere to put the soap. I found myself passing it from hand to hand and finally tossing it into the washbasin so that I could rinse my hands.

The microfibre towel bought from Mountain Warehouse performed well. It soaked up water efficiently and I was quickly dry.

Sunshine in East Street

When we went out, the sun was shining, though how long it will last remains to be seen.

Pret A Manger

For breakfast we went to Pret as this was the nearest place open.

The Royal Pavilion

Afterwards, we visited the grounds of the Royal Pavilion.

The Pavilion gardens

The gardens were looking green and lush and I know that they are continually tended and cared for.

The Dome-

On the opposite side of the garden from the Pavilion is this building called the Dome. People are often amazed to learn that it was built by the Prince Regent to hold the royal stables. That makes sense, though: you wouldn’t want an unprepossessing utilitarian building detracting from the beauty of the nearby Pavilion. Today, the Dome holds Brighton Museum and Art Gallery.

Passing through Lewes

We next boarded a number 29 bus that took us on a long ride through Sussex towns and villages, including Lewes.

Uckfield High Street

We left the bus in Uckfield and went for a walk along the High Street.

The Picture House

We admired the Picture House but as it started to rain, looked around for somewhere to shelter and have coffee.

The Coffee Barn

Seeing the Coffee Barn, we went there.

Inside the Coffee Barn

They seated us and gave us menus to peruse. Among the items available was… Cream Tea! As it was just about lunchtime, we ordered a cream tea each.

Cream tea
Photo by Tigger

A cream tea is as good as lunch, surely? 🙂 We’ll have a “proper” meal later.

The River Uck

We went for another walk after “lunch”, on the way crossing the River Uck. What the relationship is between the names of the river and the town, I do not know. One etymology of Uckfield suggests that it derives from a field owned by an Anglo-Saxon farmer called Ucca but I have not so far found a convincing derivation of the river’s name. Could it simply have taken its name from that of the town?

Railway signal box

Small as it is, Uckfield has a railway station and a signal box.

It’s a terminus

Having reached here, though, the train returns the way it came: Uckfield is a terminus.

Wooden sculptures

We saw two wooden sculptures but there was no information on what they represented or who made them.

Crowborough United Church

We had originally intended to go to Crowborough and took a bus in that direction. As there didn’t seem to be much of interest (as seen from the bus), we stopped off at this church to catch a bus back

Fitzroy House, Lewes

We decided to break our journey at Lewes. We know this town having explored it several times but it can always bear a repeat visit.

Costa Coffee

We stopped off at the local, friendly branch of Costa Coffee.

Waterstone’s bookshop

We had a look round Waterstone’s (note the sundial on the right above the windows) but didn’t buy anything.

Aboard the 28

We then caught a bus back to Brighton, the 28 this time. From Lewes, it is a relatively short trip.

The bus dropped us off in Dyke Road. From here we walked down North Street and called in again at Sainsbury’s – no photo, you know what Sainsbury’s looks like! 🙂 Here we bought food for tonight’s supper. Then we continued down the hill to our temporary home but not before…

The Jubilee Clock Tower

…I had stopped to take a photo of one of my favourite Brighton landmarks, the Jubilee Clock Tower. Commonly called just “the Clock Tower” by locals, it was erected in 1888 in celebration of Queen Victoria’s 50 years on the throne. The clock face actually bears a date of 1887, presumably the year it was completed. It is now a Grade II listed building. Opinions on its artistic and architectural merits vary but I love it, so there!