Tigger was working the early shift today so we arranged to meet on her way home to have coffee together.

Aboard the 214

This calls for some careful coordination. Tigger catches two buses to come home. She sent me a text when she boarded the second bus. That was my cue to make for the bus stop in Pentonville Road and board either the 214 or 205, whichever came first. In the event it was a 214.

The cafe
Photo by Tigger

We met on the corner of Provost Street with City Road. Here is the cafe restaurant of Moor & Mead at 155-7 City Road. First, we chose a table near a sunny window but soon found it was too warm.

It’s cooler here
Photo by Tigger

We moved over to a cooler area. Everywhere was comfortable, even luxurious.

“Modern” decor
Photo by Tigger

The decor is “modern” with lamps and plants dotted about here and there. The seating is comfortable, though, with soft seats and cushions.

A variety of seating

There is a variety of types of seating. These include upright chairs suitable for dining and softer chairs and settees for lounging.

Coffee and dessert
Photo by Tigger

We ordered coffee and dessert. The dessert was crème brûlée served with black grapes and sliced strawberries. Was it delicious? Yes, it was!

Illuminated passage
Photo by Tigger

The interior has some strange features with unexpected planes and corners. You either enjoy the novelty of it or feel uncomfortable, depending on your tastes.

Self-consciously asymmetrical

Looking at the exterior of the building shows why the interior is unusual: the whole building is of a self-consciously asymmetric form. The windows are arranged in a sloping pattern as though the building were tipping over. Modern architecture, like modern art, seems to enter realms of the eccentric for lack of any more genuine inspiration.

Aboard the 214

For us, though, it was time to cross the busy City Road to the bus stop. As it happened, the first bus that came was a single-deck 214 but that was good because, for some reason, it was less crowded than the alternatives.

Back home, we are having a little rest before supper. Will our “just desserts” spoil our appetites? Somehow, I don’t think so!

When we went out this morning, the sun was shining, despite the weather forecast telling us that the sky were covered in clouds.

Sunshine and clouds in Claremont Square-

Despite the sunshine, however, the sky held the threat of rain and we made sure we had umbrellas with us, just in case.

Coffee at the deli

We started by going to the deli in Amwell Street for coffee. It was warm enough for us to sit outside to drink it.

Spa Fields Park

We passed by Spa Fields Park though we did not go in today. To look at the park today, you would not guess its sinister past. It was once the site of a bone house and graveyard but that, in itself, is not the worst part.

Bone House & Graveyard

Its lugubrious history is outlined by a sign board. Happily, no obvious vestiges of this past can be noticed today.

A glimpse of St James’s Clerkenwell

Along a narrow side street we had a glimpse of the Church of St James Clerkenwell with its tall steeple. Built in 1792, though with later additions, it replaced an earlier church.

Farringdon Station

We passed un front of the Victorian Farringdon Station. Originally, it marked the terminus of the Metropolitan Railway, London’s and the world’s first underground railway. Today it is served by trains of the Metropolitan Line and also of the Circle Line and the Hammersmith & City Line.

The old Parcels Office

At one end we can still see an inscription indicating the “Parcels Office” though there is no longer a parcels service nor has there been for many decades.

Another period piece

At the other end of the station we can see small building, independent of it but dating from about the same period. It now looks painfully truncated, cut off from its erstwhile neighbours by the ugly modern excrescence that has replaced them.

Costa Coffee
Photo by Tigger

We felt it was time for a rest and refreshments and for this we entered a nearby branch of Costa Coffee.

Turreted building

I admired this handsome building that possesses a turret. Turrets fascinate me and I have a long-term ambition to live – or at least, stay for a while – in a house with a turret room.

The Bleeding Heart Tavern

Continuing on, we reached a pub, the Bleeding Heart Tavern. The present pub was established in the late 18th century but the name originally belonged to an ancient inn that no longer exists. Its sign showed the heart of the Virgin, pierced by seven daggers.

Bleeding Heart Yard

Behind the pub is a well-known cobbled courtyard called Bleeding Heart Yard. Its name probably derives from nothing more dramatic than its proximity to the aforementioned tavern but that name has inevitably given rise to other more dramatic, if apocryphal, etymologies. For example, see Wikipedia’s Bleeding Heart Yard.

Hatton Garden

We came into Hatton Garden, a street famous for being the centre of London’s jewellery trade. There are many jewellers’ and watch shops here and jewellery workshops on upper floors. The name derives from Elizabethan courtier Sir Christopher Hatton (1540-91) who had a mansion and a garden near here. See these links for more information on Sir Christopher and Hatton Garden.

The Prudential Assurance Building

We arrived in Holbourn, one of whose more remarkable inhabitants is the Grade II* listed Prudential Assurance Building, designed by Alfred Waterhouse and erected 1885-1901.

Aboard the 46

We were beginning to feel that it was lunchtime. Seeing nothing interesting nearby, we caught a number 46 bus.

King’s Cross Station

The bus brought us to King’s Cross where we looked at eateries but without finding anything that appealed.

Pizza Union

In the end, we plumped for the local branch of Pizza Union. You place your order at the counter. Having paid, you receive a pager which you take with you as you choose a table.

When the pager flashes…

When the pager flashes, you take it to the collecting point where you pick up your pizzas.

A Fiorentina each

We had a Fiorentina each with tea to drink. The pizzas are crispy, tasty and, of course, freshly baked to order. We would eat here from time to time even without the extra fun of the flashing pager!

Just before 10 am my phone rang: it was Curry’s people advising me that they were on their way to collect my computer. (See the previous post for context.) A few minutes later, they did indeed arrive, departing to leave me sans computer but with a receipt for same. I must now patiently wait to hear what progress, if any, has been achieved.

Free at last, I decided to make the most of what remained of the warm, sunny morning by going for a little walk before lunch.

Something missing

In front of a block of flats in Pentonville Road, we see this untidy-looking plinth. Do you remember what used to occupy it. Yes, the bright red sculpture of a larger than life-sized enraged gorilla, called Wild Kong by the artist, Richard Orlinski. For a reminder, see Wild Kong. Both Kong and the nameplate are missing, suggesting that their disappearance is permanent.

Myddelton Square

I went for a stroll around Myddelton Square, enjoying the sunshine and the peaceful atmosphere. The square, incidentally, appears a few times in Arnold Bennett’s novel Riceyman Steps. The author was obviously acquainted with the area as indicated by references to this and other street names.

Myddelton Square Garden

I walked through the square’s central garden which is bursting with new life, in both foliage and flowers.

Bush in flower

This bush was in flower and seemingly offering us its blossoms by poking them through the railings to us.

Arlington Way

Arlington Way was so quiet it seemed to be dozing in the sunshine.

Spa Green

I visited Spa Green in Rosebery Avenue, entering at the top end for a change as I usually enter by the middle gate.

Chestnut tree and chess boards

I paused here in this paved area whose only living resident is a chestnut tree. There is also a chess board but I have never seen a game in progress here.

Shakespeare’s Head and Myddelton Passage

I returned via Arlington Way because there was something I wanted to see in Myddelton Passage. You might be able to guess what it was. Yes, the pub vine! You might be able to just see it in the above photo.

The vine in February 2022

This is what the vine looked like last February: you could be forgiven for thinking it was dead. There were no leaves and it had been closely pruned. Could it ever come back to life?

Life renewed

Yes, it could and has done! The photo shows the vine today, covered in new leaves. I shall visit it from time to time to see it develop and to watch for the grapes to appear.

St Mark’s disappearing behind new foliage

Inner promptings were suggesting that it was coming up to lunchtime, so I started for home. I noticed that St Mark’s, which, from this angle, had been easily visible through the bare trees in winter, was now disappearing behind a screen of new foliage.

The Curvaceous Tree

And of course, I paused to see the Curvaceous Tree, wearing its new dress of self-produced leaves and strands of ivy. I often wonder how trees perceive the world. Static as they are, can they possibly be aware of us transient beings passing by? Could the tree even recognise frequent visitors? Probably not, but what a lovely idea!

In my post Annoying computers, I recounted the problems I was having with my new Dell laptop. Briefly, an intermittent fault causes the trackpad pointer to flutter about uncontrollably, making the computer unusable. Closing the lid for 20 seconds stabilises the pointer but only until it starts fluttering again, possibly after only a few minutes. Two visits to Curry’s and two phone calls to their support line produced no resolution.

Yesterday afternoon, the problem occurred again, several times in quick succession. I decided this time to contact Dell. I worked my way through several pages of useless information on their website and finally found a phone number. My call was answered by a man who asked me to confirm all my details and those of the computer and listened while I described my problem. Did he help? No, he put me through to another number…

My call was answered by a woman who asked me to confirm all my details and those of the computer and listened while I described my problem. Did she help? No, she gave me a phone number to call…

You can probably guess what comes next. The phone number seemd familiar and I looked it up. Yes, it was the number of Curry’s support team. Calling Dell had been a complete waste of time and energy.

Still, I thought that while I was in the mood, I might as well phone Curry support. At least I could let off steam and – who knows? – it might be a case of third time lucky.

In a sense, it was. I politely but firmly explained my complaint, both about the computer fault and being given the runaround by Dell. The support person listened, asked questions and eventually (having placed me on hold three times) informed me that someone would call at my address on the morrow to collect my computer. They would return it on May 12th.

Shortly after we ended the call, a text arrived informing me that my computer would be collected between 7 am and 11 am on the morrow.

Yesterday’s tomorrow is of course today. I didn’t really expect the courier to call at 7 am but, of course, I had to be ready just in case. The box the computer came in is long gone and I have put the laptop in it a strong, though rather large, plastic bag from the laundry. So here I now sit (it is now 8:22), waiting for the doorbell to ring.

I acquired my first computer in the 1980s and have not ever been without one since then – until today, that is. If all goes according to plan, I shall be computerless for a week. Tigger has kindly said that I may use hers in the meantime but I will do so only in case of need. When I first had a computer, possessing one was unusual: only “nerds” had computers. These days, though, so much is done by computer that not to have one places you at a definite disadvantage.

I do have my iPhone, of course, and today’s mobiles are small computers in their own right. Maybe I should pension off the hated Dell laptop and buy an iPad Pro instead or perhaps go the whole hog and replace my Windows machine with an Apple computer.

I started my today walk by visiting my favourite tree who lives in Myddelton Square and whom I call, because of its twisted shape, the Curvaceous Tree.

The Curvaceous Tree

The tree is slowly but surely dressing itself anew in its green summer mantle, as are its fellows in this lovely garden

Lloyd Square

Continuing on, I walked through Lloyd Square which also enjoys the blessing of a central garden. My intended destination was the architectural feature mentioned in the title, Riceyman Steps, which I have mentioned on previous occasions.

Today’s visit was prompted by a recent reading of Arnold Bennett’s novel, Riceyman Steps. As you may wish to read this for yourselves, I will avoid telling the story apart from mentioning the details that sparked my interest.

The real steps consist of a flight of stairs leading from Gwynne Place to Granville Square. Originally, they were known as Plum Pudding Steps but the popularity of the novel (published in 1923) inevitably led to the steps becoming known by their name in that story. They are Grade II listed.

Gwynne Place, the area at the bottom of the steps, is not named in the novel. The name “Riceyman Steps” refers both to the steps themselves and to square or short street that was in fact called Granville Place until it was renamed in 1936.

In the novel, Granville Place, aka “Riceyman Steps”, contains shops and possibly houses. Among these is T.T. Riceyman’s, the bookshop that is central to the story.

The steps lead up to “Riceyman Square”, the name given in the novel to what is actually Granville Square. An important feature of “Riceyman Square” is the Church of St Andrew, planted in the centre of it. Visitors to Granville Square today will look in vain for this church and may wonder whether the novelist invented it.

Wharton Street

From Lloyd Square, I walked downhill along Wharton Street, a broad but quiet street that leads to King’s Cross Road.

Granville Street

It crosses Granville Street, which comes in two parts, one either side of the Square. I continued on down to the main road, however.

King’s Cross Road

I came down to the road as I wanted to photograph Gwynne Place from here.

Gwynne Place from King’s Cross Road

Gwynne Place, or Granville Place as it then was, would have looked very different in Bennett’s day. The main occupant now is a huge Travelodge hotel.

Map of Granville Square

The map shows Granville Square. The famous steps are below the square on the SW side. If you want to explore the area, this link will take you to a live version of the map.

Riceyman Steps

Passing through Gwynne Place brings you to the famous steps themselves with a glimpse into Granville Square at the top.

A closer view

Here is a closer view of the steps. In its listing, Historic England says there are 20 steps but when I climbed them this morning, I counted 28.

Looking back down the steps

There is a broad landing about halfway up (or down) the steps, which may offer some relief to the climber as the individual treads are quite high. As far as nomenclature is concerned, the Council includes the steps as part of Gwynne Place but as Historic England refers to them as Riceyman Steps, I think we can do so too!

Numbers 29 to 38

The Square was built in the 1840s and the houses on three of the sides all date from then. The houses in the photo (nos 29 to 38) can claim to be different. In the above map, notice the double line of dashes to the south of Gwynne Place. It marks the position of tracks belonging to London Underground. Several lines pass that way now but the first to be built was the Metropolitan Line. When the diggings reached here, subsidence caused this row of houses to collapse! They were rebuilt according to the original design in 1845-6.

Near neighbours

Looking at them carefully and comparing them with other houses in the square, I could not see any difference. There are small design differences around the square, something typical of the period, but there is nothing now to distinguish 29-38 from their neighbours.

Granville Square Garden

In the centre of the Square is a garden. This provides a pleasant amenity not only for the local inhabitants but also for any members of the public who wish to enjoy it.

Children’s playground and basketball court

In addition to grass, shrubs and trees – some quite ancient – with benches to sit on, there is a children’s playground and a basketball court. One thing that there is not is a church, whether dedicated to St Andrew or to anyone else.

So, was the church in “Riceyman Square” just an invention of the author, Arnold Bennett, conjured up by necessity of the plot? Not exactly. There was once a church here, dedicated to St Philip. Designed by Edward Buckton Lamb, it was built in 1831-33, thus preceding the houses by a decade. What happened to it? The Metropolitan Line happened! As well as damaging numbers 29 to 38 its also damaged the church which was repaired in 1860. This did not save it, however, and the church was demolished in 1936. Careful inspection of the square by me this morning revealed no vestige of it, not even, as in other cases, gravestones placed around the perimeter.

On this page you will find pictures of Gwynne Place and a glimpse of the church. They are right down at the bottom of the page (I cannot reproduce them as they as copyright). You could compare them wih my photos taken roughly from the same viewpoints.

If you would like to read Arnold Bennet’s Riceyman Steps for ourself, you can download a free epub version from Gutenberg.

And finally, the name of Gwynne Place: this was possibly named after Nell Gwynne, who is said to have had a summer residence near here, but more likely after John Gwynne (1713-86) the architect.