To Brighton

Today we are returning to Brighton, just for a day trip. The weather is warm and sunny but I have my folding umbrella in my bag as you can never trust British weather – or British weather forecasts – completely.

St Pancras International
St Pancras International

We took a bus to St Pancras Station. It was fairly busy but, for once, there was no slow-moving Eurostar Queue.

E L & N
E L & N

We paid the ritual visit to EL & N for coffee and croissants.

The Thameslink Platforms
The Thameslink Platforms

Afterwards, we went down two levels to the Thameslink platforms that serve the south-east region. Tigger had bought electronic tickets online and buzzed us through the gates.

Aboard the Brighton train
Aboard the Brighton train

Our train was not crowded and we found seats easily but of the ordinary narrow kind – they don’t seem to have priority seats with more leg room on this route.

East Croydon Station Photo by Tigger
East Croydon Station
Photo by Tigger

As we called at other stations, more people boarded the train and from East Croydon, all seats were occupied and there were passengers standing. The weather makes the seaside seem inviting.

Coming in to land Photo by Tigger
Coming in to land
Photo by Tigger

We stopped at Gatwick where a lot of passengers disembarked – people are prepared to face delays at the airport in order to travel abroad. As we continued on, Tigger photographed a plane coming in to land.

Arriving at Brighton
Arriving at Brighton

Arriving at Brighton, we joined the crush at the ticket barrier and Tigger buzzed us through.

The Bystander Cafe
The Bystander Cafe

From the station, we crossed the road to the Bystander Cafe where we had tea and toast – with jam! High living, indeed.

Upper Gardner Street
Upper Gardner Street

We walked down the hill from the station, passing first along Upper Gardner Street where a street market was taking place.

Gardner Street
Gardner Street

Then we entered the famous Gardner Street which was closed to vehicles and had tables of the various eateries out in the roadway.

First glimpse
First glimpse

We soon had our first glimpse of the unique Royal Pavilion, partially screened by trees.

The Royal Pavilion
The Royal Pavilion

The Pavilion is too big for s normal photo so I took a panorama. There is a little distortion but it gives a good idea of the exotic palace.

The War Memorial
The War Memorial

We visited the War Memorial (1922) where the gulls were making merry with the fresh water.

Victoria Fountain
Victoria Fountain

The funfair had departed so we were able to approach the Victoria Fountain though, unfortunately, it was not working but sitting sulkily dry.

Beach, sea, pier
Beach, sea, pier

Then we reached the seafront beside the Palace Pier. The sea was summer blue as it rolled onto the shingle beach.

The Pier
The Pier

The pier is hard to photograph as it is so long (a quarter of a mile, allegedly). I noticed that the owners have now included “palace” in the name, calling it Brighton Palace Pier. Better, but still not yet what it should be.

Ice cream
Ice cream

We bought ice cream and then it was a race against time, trying to eat it before it melted in the heat and ran down the cone and our hands.

Volks Electric Railway
Volks Electric Railway

When I was a child during WWII, Volks Railway was closed and, never having seen it, I was impatient for it to start running. Since then I have ridden it along the seafront track though not today.

The beach from the pier
The beach from the pier

We went onto the pier from where I took this photo. (When I was a child, it cost 3d – three old pence – to go onto the pier. Today, it’s free.)

The sea below
The sea below

We found a bench to sit on. Between the planks of the footway, you can see the sea below. This makes some people nervous.

CrêpeAffaire
CrêpeAffaire

Crêpes for lunch Photo by Tigger
Crêpes for lunch
Photo by Tigger

For lunch we went to CrêpeAffaire.

In the Pavilion gardens
In the Pavilion gardens

We went into the garden of the Pavilion and lay in the sun on the astroturfed “lawn” from where I took the above photo.

Return to the YHA
Return to the YHA

We returned to the Royal York aka the YHA where we stayed a couple of weeks ago.

YHA cafe
YHA cafe

We took up temporary residence in the cafe while we had coffee (and used the wifi!).

A last look
A last look

We went to the promenade for a last look at the sea. It was very windy, as you can tell from the white tops on the waves.

Bus to the station
Bus to the station

Then we caught a bus to the station but before we boarded our train…

Belgian chips
Belgian chips

…Tigger fancied some Belgian chips so, of course, we bought some.

In the station Photo by Tigger
In the station
Photo by Tigger

We went into the station to eat them and attracted the attention of a gull.

Got any chips? Photo by Tigger
Got any chips?
Photo by Tigger

We did not give him anything as you are not supposed to encourage them. We were also careful in case he decided to make s grab – it has been known. He decamped only when we had eaten everything.

Aboard our train
Aboard our train

Ten minutes before departure time, we boarded the train at platform 5 even though no destination was shown. We guessed it was ours and so it proved. The train left on time and off we went, heading for St Pancras and home.

E L & N
E L & N

On arrival at St Pancras, we allowed ourselves to be tempted and paid a last visit to E L & N for coffee.

Aboard the 214
Aboard the 214

Having finished our coffee, we made our way out of the station into Midland Road and there boarded a 214 bus. There must have been a “gap in the service” as the bus filled up very quickly. Soon, though, we reached our home stop.

Once again, in Brighton I felt the same warm feeling of belonging that I had experienced during our recent stay and this made today’s trip doubly worthwhile. Despite the elapsed years, Brighton is still in some sense my home town and I think it always will be.

Tea in the Minories

In the “old days”, that is before Covid, I regularly travelled to St Katharine Docks to meet Tigger from work. What with furloughs, lockdowns and limits on visiting, I lost the habit. Today, I decided to meet Tigger from her office, though whether this will again become a regular occurrence, I don’t yet know.

On arrival, but before entering Tigger’s office block, I took a look at the dock. The three photos below form a triptych of the East Dock.

St Katharine Docks

St Katharine Docks

East Dock, St Katharine Docks
East Dock, St Katharine Docks

The vessels in this basin are moored here long term. Only occasionally does one disappear or a new one take up station. I know many of them by name now and often stroll round the dock renewing my acquaintance, as it were.

Art (allegedly)
Art (allegedly)

All along the dock are apartment blocks forming a gated community (you can’t even pass through the gate without knowing the number to type in). By themselves in their own enclosure are these pieces of twisted metal like something out of a bomb explosion. Presumably, they are intended as a work of art.

A view from the 4th floor Photo by Tigger
A view from the 4th floor
Photo by Tigger

Tigger’s workplace is on the 4th floor and windows are full length, allowing views down into the atrium. Heights make me nervous so I tend to keep a respectful distance from the windows!

Motel One, the Minories
Motel One, the Minories

On the way home, we stopped off for refreshments. We chose Motel One in the Minories. Their lounge/cafe used to be a favourite of ours in the “old days” and so we thought it was time to revisit.

Tea
Tea

Tigger had coffee but I preferred tea. I’ve made this a moving picture so that you can see it nicely steaming!

Earthing

Earthing

Earthing

Earthing Jocelyn McGregor
Earthing
Jocelyn McGregor

On our way to the bus, we visited this sculpture, part of this year’s Sculpture in the City. It is in two parts and the general theme is mollusc shells with human limbs in place of the expected molluscs, plus a pair of “snake legs”, as a bonus, I suppose. You will find some blah about this work here.

Photo by Tigger
Photo by Tigger

Dukes Place

The view in Duke’s Place
The view in Duke’s Place

We waited for a bus is Duke’s Place and while waiting took some photos. The City is now cluttered with huge buildings that blot out the sky and turn the streets into windy canyons. I find the resulting landscape alien and depressing.

Waiting at the lights
Waiting at the lights

The bus cane and we boarded. It carried us through the busy City streets (in the photo, we are waiting at traffic lights) back to the Angel and home. This trip was “like old times” for me. I should do it more often.

Gillespie Park

The day started grey but we were promised sunny intervals and warmer temperatures later. There was also a yellow warning for thunder storms though not until tonight.

Coffee at the deli Photo by Tigger
Coffee at the deli
Photo by Tigger

We took a chance on the deli being open today and went to see. Our chance paid off: the deli was open and we had a choice of tables too.

Catching the 19
Catching the 19

After our coffee break, we walked through to Rosebery Avenue and waited for a number 19 bus. We did not have long to wait.

Finsbury Park Station
Finsbury Park Station

We stayed on the bus until it reached its terminus at Finsbury Park Station. This is a triple station serving buses, British rail and London Underground.

Metal outline figures
Metal outline figures

We left the bus and started walking, on the way passing these outline figures in metal. They no doubt represent famous people but I didn’t take time to identify them.

Blackstock Road
Blackstock Road

We walked along Blackstock Road which, at this end at least, contains shops and cafes of different ethnicities, presenting interesting choices.

The Arsenal Cafe
The Arsenal Cafe

As lunchtime was approaching and we were feeling peckish, we looked around for a cafe where we could have a meal. We plumped for the Arsenal Cafe.

Inside the Arsenal Cafe
Inside the Arsenal Cafe

In case you are wondering about the militaristic name, I will mention that “Arsenal” is the name of the local football team and therefore, by extension, the name of the neighbourhood. It is also the name of the nearby tube station on the Piccadilly Line.

Framed feather
Framed feather

On the cafe wall was hanging a picture frame containing a single feather. Intriguing. As I forgot to ask about it, I cannot furnish an explanation.

The N4 Library
The N4 Library

Also in Blackstock Road is one of Islington’s public libraries which they call the N4 Library. We went in for a look as we like libraries and have discovered some very fine ones on our travels. Councils, being short of money, have been closing libraries and so finding one still open is always a pleasure.

Finsbury Park Mosque
Finsbury Park Mosque

We walked past the large (five-storied) Finsbury Park Mosque, also known as the North London Central Mosque.

A former hotel?
A former hotel?

This building on a corner caught my attention. It looks as though it might have once been a classy hotel but I have no information about its history.

Entrance to Gillespie Park
Entrance to Gillespie Park

We now came to the site that Tigger had picked out for a visit, Gillespie Park. This is not like any other park I have visited with the possible exception of Camley Street Natural Park. In fact, the origins of both parks are similar. The strangeness starts with this entrance.

Steps to the park
Steps to the park

At this entrance (there is a more “normal” entrance in Gillespie Road), you pass through a narrow gate and then climb 28 steps. The brings you into the narrowest section of the park.

Gillespie Park on Google Map
Gillespie Park on Google Map

This is what the park looks like on a map. The stepped entrance is at the top of the picture.

Park history
Park history

An information board explains the history of the park from an industrial site via wasteland to a Council owned ecology park – an inspiring success story.

Little more than a green path
Little more than a green path

From the steps, the park is but a narrow strip containing a path with a belt of greenery on either side.

Bordered by the railway
Bordered by the railway

The right-hand side is limited by the railway and some of the greenery on that side is actually growing on railway property.

Denser growth in places
Denser growth in places

The greenery, consisting of plants, grasses and trees, is denser on the left and, in some places…

The land opens up
The land opens up

…the land opens up, more like a conventional park.

A stile
A stile

In one place we discovered a stile leading to a further section of the park though we didn’t respond to its invitation on this occasion.

Pretty green insect
Pretty green insect

There were birds and bees busily at work and Tigger steadied this flower for me to take a photo of the pretty green insect perched in it.

The Ecology Centre
The Ecology Centre

We passed an ecology centre and…

Gateway to woodland
Gateway to woodland-

…passed through this gateway into woodland.

Woodland path
Woodland path

We entered onto a path that led through woodland.

The pond
The pond

For a while in the thickets we had seen plants that grow in or close to water and this suggested a pond though we could not see one. At last, though, we came to it.

Panorama from our bench
Panorama from our bench

There was a long, low bench here and we sat for a while enjoying the peaceful atmosphere.

One of the mosaics
One of the mosaics

As we approached the Gillespie Road entrance, we found some charming mosaic panels set into the ground.

Out into Gillespie Road
Out into Gillespie Road

We exited through a gate in a wall into Gillespie Road. We now had a long walk ahead of us back to the main road where we could catch a bus.

The Arsenal Stadium
The Arsenal Stadium

We passed the Art Deco Arsenal Stadium which used to be the home ground of the football team of the same name. The team is now based, I believe, in the Emirates Stadium.

Church of St Joan of Arc
Church of St Joan of Arc-

We passed this Catholic church, dedicated to St Joan of Arc, which attracted our attention with its tall, pointed steeple.

Frank’s Cafe
Frank’s Cafe

Reaching a main road called Highbury Park, we stopped off at Frank’s cafe to quench our thirst and then walked down to the nearby bus stop.

On a number 4 bus
On a number 4 bus

We boarded a number 4 bus which carried us through Highbury and…

Bus stop at Angel Station
Bus stop at Angel Station

…brought us to the Angel Station, a short walk from home, ending today’s escapade.

Jubilee bank holiday

It looks to be a cloudy day but fairly warm and, unusual for a bank holiday in Britain, without rain!

After yesterday’s pleasant outing, we are making a slow start this morning. We had a leisurely breakfast and then went out to take a look at Jubilee day. (You may have guessed that we are not monarchists and will not be waving any flags. A holiday is a holiday, though, whatever its ostensible reason, and not to be wasted.)

The deli - closed
The deli – closed

We found the deli closed, as we had half-expected it to be. We don’t begrudge them their time off – far from it – as they work hard and deserve a rest from time to time.

Cat on window sill
Cat on window sill

In River Street, we met a cat we had not seen before. He was enjoying the fresh air and, as we took our photos, watched us with a slightly worried expression. We will watch out for him when we pass this way.

The pub vine
The pub vine

We walked along Myddelton Passage and visited the pub vine. I had told Tigger that there were now many tiny bunches of grapes on it and she wanted to see this for herself.

Tiny bunches of grapes
Tiny bunches of grapes

There are tiny bunches of grapes all over the vine which is spreading its branches far and wide. I am surprised at how fast it has grown and spread.

Spa Green
Spa Green

We passed through Spa Green which was quiet and peaceful.

Caffè Nero
Caffè Nero

We went to Caffè Nero in Exmouth Market.

Coffee and croissants Photo by Tigger
Coffee and croissants
Photo by Tigger

We had a second breakfast – or was it elevenses? 🙂 – of coffee and croissants.

Honor Oak
Honor Oak

We now boarded a number 63 bus which took us on long journey into the south of London. We disembarked at the bus’s terminus, Honor Oak, in Camberwell.

The name Honor Oak is said to refer to an oak tree that stood on One Tree Hill. In 1602, so the story goes, Queen Elizabeth I sat under this tree, and for that reason it was named Honor Oak thereafter. (“Honor” is the old spelling of the word that remained frozen in the name of the tree.) The original oak no longer exists, having been destroyed by lightning strike in 1884. That, anyway, is the story which you may believe or not as you wish.

In the Spanish deli
In the Spanish deli

Across the road from the bus stop was an establishment called Cafe Norris + Knight, which despite that name, declared itself to be a Spanish deli. Here we found lunch.

Pretty tea cups
Pretty tea cups

There was a choice of teas and I chose Darjeeling. It was proper leaf tea too, not bags, and served in pretty floral patterned tea cups.

Lunch! Photo by Tigger
Lunch!
Photo by Tigger

Tigger chose a halloumi salad and I had a toasted sourdough sandwich with goat’s cheese.

Horniman Park
Horniman Park

After lunch, we boarded a 363 which brought us to Horniman Park, part of the Horniman Museum and Gardens. We have already visited the museum but not the park and so we went there today.

The Bandstand
The Bandstand

We climbed the hill to the bandstand and then the steps beside it up to the level ground at the top.

A view from the bandstand
A view from the bandstand

The bandstand was closed to the public but from beside it we had fine views across the town.

Alpaca
Alpaca

In an enclosure we saw two alpacas but one went away before I could take a photo of them together. They are rather appealing animals though it seems a pity to keep them confined.

Aboard the 363
Aboard the 363

We spent some time in the park, sitting on a bench and enjoying the scenery. When it was time to leave, we undertook a long walk downhill until we came to a main road where we could catch a 363 bus.

Market stalls in Peckham From the bus
Market stalls in Peckham
From the bus

The bus took us through Peckham and there we changed to a 63 which would take us all the way to King’s Cross and home territory.

Pentonville Road from the bus
Pentonville Road from the bus

At King’s Cross, there was already a 30 at the bus stop so we hurried and caught it. This carried us up the hill of Pentonville Road to home.

We had set out to avoid the flag waving and other activities associated with the Jubilee and in this had been completely successful. We had also made a foray into that “other London”, the one south of the Thames, and that is always interesting to do.

To Margate

This week we have have a double bank holiday: the annual spring bank holiday has been moved to Thursday and the Queen’s Platinum Jubilee is celebrated on Friday, making a four-day weekend.

Today, the weather being reasonably fine, we decided to visit the seaside town of Margate, where Tigger once lived. Possibly, it is not a good idea because, predictably, lots of people have the idea of going to the seaside and everywhere will be crowded. And you know how I hate crowds…

We took a bus to St Pancras International Station. Everywhere was crowded and there was a long queue for the Eurostar which you had to break through to reach the shops. I bought coffee and croissants while Tigger took care of the tickets.

Aboard the HS1
Aboard the HS1

Coffee and croissants in hand, we went up the escalator to the HS1 platforms. Our train was already there and we went aboard. It looked as though all the seats might be occupied but we found two vacant priority seats and grabbed them.

Arriving at Margate
Arriving at Margate

We reached Margate at last and walked through the station.

Margate Station
Margate Station

Margate’s first railway station opened in 1863 but the present building dates from 1926.

A glimpse of the sea
A glimpse of the sea

We crossed the road and had our first sight of the sea across Margate’s famous sandy beach.

The Victoria Jubilee Clock Tower
The Victoria Jubilee Clock Tower

As we approached it, the Jubilee Clock, installed in honour of that other long-lived monarch, Victoria, was striking 12 noon.

Margate Harbour
Margate Harbour

We walked along the promenade, approaching the harbour arm that also serves the purpose of a pier. The actual pier, somewhat perversely called the Jetty, became dangerous and first closed, then was destroyed by a storm, in the 1970s.

Exploring the backstreets

Exploring the backstreets
Exploring the backstreets

The seafront was crowded, not only by pedestrians but, worse, by hundreds of motorcycles, mostly in groups. The noise of engines and the stink of exhaust fumes spoilt an otherwise pleasant environment. We took a turn round the backstreets where it was quieter.

Motorcycles everywhere
Motorcycles everywhere

Despite the noise, we sat on a bench near the seafront for a while taking in the scene. As some motorcycles departed, others arrived. There were also quite a few motor scooters but the two communities seemed to coexist peacefully. The old quarrels of “Mods” and “Rockers” have seemingly passed into history.

The Wig & Pen
The Wig & Pen

For lunch we looked at a few places but they were either unappealing or crowded. This is where local knowledge comes in handy: we went to the pub called the Wig & Pen because…

Bow’s Thai Kitchen
Bow’s Thai Kitchen

…upstairs is Bow’s Thai Kitchen. It was not at all crowded and the menu included a lot of vegetarian dishes.

Two number 17s Photo by Tigger
Two number 17s
Photo by Tigger

We both had number 17 on the menu – Kway Teow Pad See-Ewe – a mildly spiced noodle dish with halloumi in place of meat. With it we shared a pot of jasmin tea.

Sitting on the sesfront
Sitting on the sesfront

Afterwards, we sat on a bench at the seafront for a while. Despite the crowds and the uncouth noises from the road behind us, it was quite pleasant in the sunshine.

The old Custom House
The old Custom House

We then walked to the harbour arm and the old Custom House that is now a tourist information office and RNLI shop.

Bicycles, scooters, motor cycles
Bicycles, scooters, motor cycles

The open space behind the Custom House was crowded with bicycles, motor scooters and motorcycles but…

Mostly motorcycles
Mostly motorcycles

…mostly motorcycles.

The Lifeboat Station
The Lifeboat Station

We briefly visited the lifeboat station.

Quieter streets
Quieter streets

We went for a stroll in quieter parts of town.

Costa Coffee
Costa Coffee

We tarried a while in a branch of Costa Coffee which was far enough away from the centre not to be crowded.

The High Street
The High Street

We walked up the High Street which is pedestrian only, though you have to watch out for cyclists who don’t think the rules apply to them. “Cyclists Dismount” is apparently incomprehensible to these idiots.

Jubilee Clock Tower and promenade
Jubilee Clock Tower and promenade

Though we had a while to go before our train at 4:30 pm, we began slowly to make our way back to the railway station, passing the Jubilee Clock Tower again, …

Amusement arcade
Amusement arcade

…the several amusement arcades and…

Ice cream shop
Ice cream shop

…the ice cream shops, which were doing plenty of trade on such a warm, sunny day.

Approaching the station
Approaching the station

Here we are approaching the railway station in plenty of time for our train, so no need to hurry.

Aboard HS1
Aboard HS1

The train arrived and we went aboard. There was the usual scramble for seats but…

Priority Seats
Priority Seatsn

… once again we found a pair of priority seats which have extra space for our long legs.

Crossing the River Medway Photo by Tigger
Crossing the River Medway
Photo by Tigger

We crossed the River Medway, taking us out of the modern county and ancient kingdom of Kent.

Arriving back in London
Arriving back in London

The train duly delivered us back at St Pancras in London.

EL & N
EL & N

For a final treat, we stopped off at EL & N for coffee where the Eurostar queue was denser than ever, winding past like a river.

Aboard the 214
Aboard the 214

Outside the station, we caught a number 214 bus which carried us up the hill to the Angel, ending today’s outing.

Photographed and written as it happened.