This morning, as usual for Sunday, we…

In Sainsbury’s

…went shopping at Sainsbury’s and…

Through the door at Mercer’s

…bought our takeaway coffees at Mercer’s.

St Mark’s in Myddelton Square

After lunch, we walked through Myddelton Square, where the church was beautifully sunlit, into Amwell Street where (of course!) we called at the deli.

Sitting outside the deli
Photo by Tigger

It is a fine sunny day and quite warm, so it was very pleasant sitting outside and dawdling over our coffee.

Autumn tree

We walked through Myddelton Square garden and admired this beautiful tree decked in fiery autumn colours.

Tigger had a destination in mind but didn’t tell me what it was. I was happy to follow along, ready to be surprised.

Owen’s Field

We walked through the small park called Owen’s Field (the artwork is by Paul Neagu and entitled Edgerunner) and…

Goswell Road

…entered Goswell Road.

City Road

From Goswell Road, we crossed into City Road. This famous thoroughfare carries traffic into London and is an ancient road. Nowadays, it is lined with buildings but in times past it ran through fields and travellers along it risked meeting thieves and highwaymen.

City Road Basin

City Road passes close to this branch of the Regent’s Canal. It is called City Basin and would once have been alive with barges loading and unloading their cargoes. Today it is so quiet that much of it is covered with a virtually continuous layer of duckweed.

The Eagle Tavern, Shepherdess Walk

We came to the street with the picturesque name of Shepherdess Walk. Here resides a pub called the Eagle. On the side of the pub is a board bearing a verse of the old rhyme one of whose verses runs thus:

Up and down the City Road,
In and out the Eagle,
That’s the way the money goes,
Pop! Goes the weasel.

Is this the actual tavern to which the rhyme refers, though? Pubs are notorious for changing their names, after all. The rhyme in the above version dates to the mid-19th century and there are records of this pub going back at least to the 18th century, so it is quite likely that this is indeed The Eagle of the rhyme.

Shepherdess Walk

The name Shepherdess Walk may have a bucolic ring to it but the reality is more prosaic. It is a fairly ordinary city street, not particularly pretty.

Neglected planters

Shoreditch Council has made an abortive attempt to improve the street’s attractiveness by installing four planters but they are neglected and the plants drying up.

Old pub?

We stopped to admire this building that seems to be an old pub now repurposed. It looks as if it needs – and deserves – a little TLC. Modern architects produce such ugly great lumps of buildings that we need to keep and care for as many of the beautiful old ones as we can.

The tunnel

For a while, Tigger had been scanning the houses that we passed. Then came the “Aha!” moment when she discovered this tunnel through the building.

Through the tunnel

We made our way down the steps and then along the tunnel, claustrophobia held at bay by the glow of daylight at the end.

Mosaics

The tunnel brought us into Shepherdess Walk Park. In a corner of this are to be found a remarkable collection of mosaics.

Mosaics continued

By Tessa Hunkin, aided by volunteers, the mosaics were created in time for the London-hosted Olympic Games in 2012.

Mosaics continued

There are vertical mosaics and horizontal mosaics which makes them a little difficult to render satisfactorily in photos. They need to be seen at first hand. For more information about the mosaics, see this website.

Holy Trinity Hoxton

We walked back along the Walk but stopped to photograph this church, Holy Trinity Hoxton, though it is largely hidden by its screen of trees.

Murray Grove

We turned up Murray Grove to the bus stop there.

Aboard the hopper

We caught a number 294 bus, known as the Hoxton Hopper, a single-door, single-deck bus that threads a complicated path through the backstreets. Passengers and drivers tend to know one another and greet one another amicably.

The Clock Tower

We left the bus at the Clock Tower, a short walk from home.

Sadly, our weekend is coming to an end and Tigger must return to work tomorrow. We will make the most of this evening.

Sunshine in Amwell Street

It’s a beautiful sunny day today, good for rambling around without a fixed destination.

Bookshop goose

I noticed that the window of what used to be the rare book seller’s (and might still be, for all I know) was bare except for a stuffed goose, caught in mis-stride towards some unremembered destination. A poet might make something of this but the Muses abandoned me long ago.

Lloyd Square

After our traditional coffee at the deli, we walked past Lloyd Square where I admired the beautiful trees. I mentioned that I felt a little sad to think that soon, the trees will lose their leaves and this beauty will be gone until next summer. Tigger reminded me that each season has its own store of beauty that we can enjoy.

First cat

If meeting cats on our rambles brings good luck, as we tend to think it does (only half-seriously, of course!), then we are quadruply lucky today, having met, not one, but four cats. The fourth was somewhat shy and we were unable to obtain a photo but we caught the other three. This one consented ti brief ear-tickle before moving on.

Fire damage in Granville Square
Photo by Tigger

We walked through Granville Square where we found these signs of fire damage. By chance we met an inhabitant of the house who told us that, thankfully, there had been no casualties and virtually no interior damage as the fire had been in the basement “area”. The house, however, remains without gas or electricity with no indication as to when these services may be restored. Our informant and his family are in the meantime living in a hotel.

Second cat

In Granville Square, too, we met our second cat. He acknowledged our presence and interest to the extent of wrinkling his nose in our direction but, apart from that, was too busy to give us closer attention.

King’s Cross Road

We continued down to King’s Cross Road. We did not stay on this busy thoroughfare but took to the backstreets. Tigger could probably tell you exactly where we went but for me, the route was a maze with the occasional identified place. I do know that we went into Bloomsbury where much of our time was spent.

Cubbit Street

For example, this pleasant- looking road is Cubbit Street, named after Thomas Cubbit, the famous master builder.

Old Telephone Exchange

We passed this old telephone exchange, now “repurposed” (in this era of mobile phones, are telephone exchanges doomed soon to disappear altogether?), and…

The Harrison

…a local pub, called the Harrison, sporting an impressive collection of mobile phone masts on its roof – not a place for radiophobes to feel comfortable in.

Third cat
Photo by Tigger

Nearby, we met our third cat. Like the others, he paid us distant attention but obviously had his mind on other things.

Solid street ar

This piece of street art caught my attention. It is not simply paint, as a quick glance might suggest, but…

Modelled in relief

…has been modelled in relief as you can perhaps see from this photo.

Patisserie Deux Amis
Photo by Tigger

We stopped for coffee at this charming little pattisserie.

Chocolat Révillon clock

Inside the small cafe (it has just six tables) I saw this antique-looking advertisement clock. Whether it really is antique or only pretending to be so, I do not know, but it was showing the right time and Révillon still exists as a manufacturer of chocolate.

Mary Ward Centre

It was what they call “a blast from the past” to find myself in front of this building. Half-a-century ago, I first came to London where I was to be an assistant lecturer at Birkbeck College (University of London). Birkbeck was short of space in those days and my little office and the lecture room were in this building. I worked here for two years before moving on to another post elsewhere.

Russell Square Gardens

We took a stroll in Russell Square Gardens.

Mahatma Gandhi statue
Fredda Brilliant

There are several memorials in the gardens, including this one of Mahatma Mohandas Gandhi by Fredda Brilliant.

Busy squirrel

There were pigeons and other animals in the garden, including squirrels who seemed unafraid of human visitors.

Leo’s
From Apple Maps by Tigger

For lunch we went here, a cafe called Leo’s. I forgot to take a photo so Tigger extracted this one from Apple Maps.

Lunch!
Photo by Tigger

We both chose vegetarian cheese omelette with chips and salad.

Art by Dan Kitchener

Back in early September, we had visited Dan Kitchener who was busy on a contracted painting for a hotel (see Art and about). Finding ourselves nearby, we went to take a look at the finished version.

Theobalds Road

Finding ourselves in Theobalds Road, where Holborn Public Library (run by Camden Council) resides, Tigger wanted to visit it to look up some of the buildings that we had seen during our outing.

Holbourn Library, ground floor

The library is quite pleasant, light and airy.

Holbourn Library, first floor

We went up to the first floor. Here is where the books on architecture are to be found. Tigger found a selection to study.

Upside-down human figures

The library is decorated curiously by upside-down human figures hanging from the ceiling.

Aboard the 38

Leaving the library, we walked a few paces to the nearest bus stop. Here we caught a number 38 bus back to the Angel and home where we will spend a pleasant relaxed evening.

Shopping at Sainsbury’s

As usual on a Sunday, we went shopping at Sainsbury’s in the morning.

Sunshine in Amwell Street

After lunch, we called at the deli and found a table free where we could enjoy our coffee.

Sitting at the back of the 214

Tigger needed a 2023 diary and so we caught a 214 bus to Camden Town. It was crowded and we had to sit at the back (meaning a scramble to leave the bus at our stop).

Camden High Street

We left the bus in Camden High Street where most of the shops were open.

The Works

We went into a branch of The Works which sells books, toys and stationery. The diaries were in a hidden corner but we found them and Tigger bought one.

Aboard the 274

We walked to the bus stop in Pratt Street and boarded a 274 bus. This took us to Regent’s Park.

Crossing the Regent’s Canal

To enter the park you must cross a bridge over the Regent’s Canal.

Walking in the park

In the park, we walked down the broad main path.

Sir Cowasjee Jehangir Fountain

We sat for a while on a bench near the Sir Cowasgee Jehangir drinking fountain, also known as the “Ready Money Drinking Fountain” after the nickname of Sir Cowasjee who gifted it to the community.

Beautiful trees

We walked among the beautiful trees and…

Open areas

…along the open areas.

We were hoping to find the Frieze Sculpture Exhibition and we eventually located it. The exhibits were much as you would expect, given the current state of art. I photographed several of the works but with increasing feelings of scepticism. I made no attempt to photograph everything. I present here just a selection with a photo of the artwork and a photo of its label. Make of these what you will.

Wood pigeon-

Better than any work of art on display was this wood pigeon who stood quietly beside me while I photographed it.

Aboard the 30

We now walked to the bus stop and caught a number 30 bus back to the Angel and home.

We had no particular plan for today other than the usual starting point: coffee at the deli.

Sunshine in Amwell Street

The sun was shining, making everything seem cheerful. We sat outside the deli with our coffee.

Afterwards, we went for a walk, wandering more or less at random. What follows are some of the things we saw along the way.

Miniature clock tower

We walked down to Farringdon Road where this charming though small clock tower resides on a hotel.

A demo goes by

To cross the road we had to wait for traffic and a demo to pass by. I don’t know what the demo was about but it snarled up the traffic nicely, causing drivers to sound their horns, no doubt in support 🙂

How to bend a row of houses

Wren Street curves to the left, presenting the architect who designed its row of houses with a problem. He solved it by “breaking” the row, making a triangular space between the houses at the “break”.

St Andrew’s Gardens

We went through St Andrew’s Gardens, once the burial ground of St Andrew’s Church and now a small but pleasant public garden. A few of the larger tombstones remain in place but the rest have been moved to the periphery. London’s burial grounds were closed to new interments in the 1850s, so it is unlikely that there is anyone left to complain about what they might have seen as desecration of the graves.

A lone flower
Photo by Tigger

Among all the greenery, we spotted a single flower but a beautiful one and Tigger took a photo of it.

Coram’s Fields

We passed by Coram’s Fields but didn’t go in. Adults are allowed into this park only if accompanying a child. Thomas Coram created the Foundlings Hospital which is still to be seen adjacent to the Fields.

Bas relief
Photo by Tigger

Bas relief detail

On a 1930s building we found an interesting bas relief. As it is all of one colour and somewhat weathered, it’s a little difficult to make out the details. Nor did we have time to try to work out what its meaning mught be.

Decorated with terra cotta

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In Queens Square, I photographed this building because I liked the terra cotta decorations. Terra cotta is a lovely material though soft and therefore liable to suffer damage.

Queens Square Gardens

We went into Queens Square Gardens and it was warm enough to sit for a while on a bench and enjoy the peaceful atmosphere.

Statue of Queen Charlotte

The question as to which queen the square commemorates is answered by this statue in the gardens. It represents Queen Charlotte of Mecklenburg-Strelitz, wife of George III. It dates from 1775 (I don’t know who the sculptor was) and is made of lead, a material that went out of fashion for sculptures by Victorian times.

Queen Charlotte – detail

I took this close-up photo to show how detailed the sculpture is. You can make out the individual threads of the tassels.

Mother and child
Patricia Finch

There are other sculptures in the gardens, including the above by Patricia Finch, and…

Sam the cat

…this portrait of a cat about to jump down from a wall. The sculptor’s name is not noted but the work is dedicated to Patricia Penn, “Champion of Local Causes – and cat lover”. The original Sam was stolen in August 2007 and a new sculpture was unveiled in May 2009.

Victorian water pump
Photo by Tigger

Also in the square is a Victorian water pump, unusually combined with a lamp which was added later. The ensemble is Grade II listed.

Spacemen and aliens

Nearby, someone has decorated an out-of-service pillar box with a sci-fi scene done partly in knitting. One of the spacecraft is taking off and has flames of coloured wool issuing from its engines!

Lamb’s Conduit Street

We arrived at Lamb’s Conduit Street though we did not explore it this time.

Tutti’s

Coffee

We made a pause at Tutti’s for coffee while we thought about lunch.

Kozzy Cafe

Wandering a bit further we happened upon Kozzy Cafe and had lunch there. “Kozzy” is not (as you might think) an ESL mistake for “cosy” but perhaps derives from the founder of the business, memorialised on the menu, and called Kalender Guvenc.

Lincoln’s Inn Fields

Continuing in, we came to Lincoln’s Inn Fields, reputedly London’s largest public square.

Arts and Crafts public toilet

Beside it stands this remarkable Arts and Crafts-style public toilet. As I didn’t go in, I cannot say whether the interior matches the quality of the exterior. I hope so.

Lincoln’s Inn Gate

The square of course contains Lincoln’s Inn, not an old pub, but one of the Inns of Court where barristers have their offices. The building is magnificent but too big to photograph as a whole and so I made do with the gate.

Royal Courts of Justice

I was beginning to feel a little tired and was happy to agree to Tigger’s proposal to make for the bus. We arrived in Fleet Street (once the home of the newspaper industry) and passed in front of the Royal Courts of Justice.

Aboard the 341

From here we caught a 341 bus back to the Angel. Tigger had a purchase to make but unfortunately did not find what she wanted. We therefore…

Costa in the mirror

…drowned our sorrows in coffee at Costa!

From here, it was but a short walk to home, ending today’s outing. After a rest, we shall be ready to enjoy a pleasant evening at home.

Tigger’s on the early shift today, leaving her office at 4 pm. For once I took the initiative and suggested that we could meet and go for coffee. Tigger was happy to agree.

St John Street

As usual on such occasions, I went to the bus stop in St John Street to catch a 153 bus.

Aboard the 153

This speedy single-deck bus goes to All Hallows, where I change, and is rarely crowded.

All Hallows in London Wall

All Hallows Church stands in the street called London Wall because the city walls (bits of which remain) passed along here. Though by no means a small building, the church seems dwarfed by the overgrown City towers.

East Dock

On arriving, I was early and went down to St Katharine Docks. The boat population in this dock seems semi-permanent. A number of craft have been here for several years and are familiar to me. A selection follows:

Zingara

Occupying a comfortable corner mooring is Zingara. The name means “Romany girl” (in these times of politically correct strictures we are apparently no longer allowed to use the word “gypsy” and I would hate to upset the self-appointed Thought Police) but a number of vessels have borne this name, some more famous than others.

Dana

The neat little Dana is registered in Doetinchem (Netherlands) if her stern inscription is correct but has rested quite happily here for as long as I have been visiting the dock.

Libertijn of Alphen

The name is Dutch (Alphen is a town in West Netherlands) but the stern inscription says she was registered in London. How do you pronounce the Dutch ‘ij’? There seem to be two schools of thought, one saying it is “long ei” (pronounced like English ‘ay’ in “hay”) and the other saying it is pronounced like English “eye”. Anyone willing to act as referee?

Grand Cru

This craft was presumably named by someone who liked good wine. A “gran cru” is a wine of high reputation though whether the term is suitably applied to naming a boat is a matter of personal choice.

Excelsior

I almost feel sorry for anything called by the overused word “excelsior” which has now, by use and abuse, become virtually meaningless. (It meant something like “higher” or “loftier” in Latin. I have no idea whether the Romans ever used this word to name ships.) I’m sure, though, that to the owners of this craft, the name is both meaningful and loved.

West Dock

Still having time to spare, I ventured into the West Dock though I come here relatively rarely and don’t know the names of any of the boats or whether they too stay here long-term.

Back in East Dock

I returned to the East Dock and took the above photo looking in the opposite direction from my first photo. You can see the large apartment block that lines the dock on two of its sides.

Sun Walk

I returned along the side of the dock by this pleasant path called by the allusive name of Sun Walk. It takes me past the boats I showed you and a good many others.

Unusual sight – empty moorings

I was surprised to notice quite a few empty moorings today in the dock, something I had not seen here before. I wonder whether it has something to do with the economic downturn.

Art, predumably

Leaving the dock, I passed this artwork consisting of three crumpled lumps of metal. Possibly it means something to someone but it says nothing to me.

Duke’s Place

When Tigger joined me, we boarded a 100 and travelled a few stops to this street. It is called Duke’s Place (at least, that’s the name of the bus stop) but to what duke it refers I have no idea. It had now started to rain which was annoying as I had decided against wearing a rain jacket. I did have my folding umbrella but as we did not have far to go, I did not deploy it.

Update: For an explanation of the name of Duke’s Place, see the helpful comment by rescuedogdexter below.

Through the window at Black Sheep

Where we were going was a branch of Black Sheep Coffee. We found a pair of comfortable armchairs by the window. You can see what the weather is like by the gentleman carrying a brolly crossing the street.

St Botolphe’s

Stopping for coffee had the added advantage that the rain stopped while we were inside. We then walked to Liverpool Street Station where we could catch a bus home, passing St Botolphe’s Church on the way.

Walking through the station

The station was very busy as it was by now the onset on the rush hour. We threaded our way through the bustling crowd to the bus station, adjacent to the railway station.

Our bus is lurking

The 153 “terminates” here, as TfL jargon has it, and the driver takes a 15-minute break. The bus lurks in the tunnel on the left. The bus whose rear you see poking out is a 153 but not our 153. It has just arrived and will wait 15 minutes before emerging. Our 153 is further inside the tunnel about to come out. A little queue had formed by the time it arrived but we all had seats for the ride home.

It has been announced that an indefinite strike involving many of London’s bus routes has been suspended while the union considers a pay offer. I mention this because good news is hard to come by at present and every crumb of it is worth savouring. Any hope of a similar suspension of train and tube strikes?