I started my today walk by visiting my favourite tree who lives in Myddelton Square and whom I call, because of its twisted shape, the Curvaceous Tree.

The Curvaceous Tree

The tree is slowly but surely dressing itself anew in its green summer mantle, as are its fellows in this lovely garden

Lloyd Square

Continuing on, I walked through Lloyd Square which also enjoys the blessing of a central garden. My intended destination was the architectural feature mentioned in the title, Riceyman Steps, which I have mentioned on previous occasions.

Today’s visit was prompted by a recent reading of Arnold Bennett’s novel, Riceyman Steps. As you may wish to read this for yourselves, I will avoid telling the story apart from mentioning the details that sparked my interest.

The real steps consist of a flight of stairs leading from Gwynne Place to Granville Square. Originally, they were known as Plum Pudding Steps but the popularity of the novel (published in 1923) inevitably led to the steps becoming known by their name in that story. They are Grade II listed.

Gwynne Place, the area at the bottom of the steps, is not named in the novel. The name “Riceyman Steps” refers both to the steps themselves and to square or short street that was in fact called Granville Place until it was renamed in 1936.

In the novel, Granville Place, aka “Riceyman Steps”, contains shops and possibly houses. Among these is T.T. Riceyman’s, the bookshop that is central to the story.

The steps lead up to “Riceyman Square”, the name given in the novel to what is actually Granville Square. An important feature of “Riceyman Square” is the Church of St Andrew, planted in the centre of it. Visitors to Granville Square today will look in vain for this church and may wonder whether the novelist invented it.

Wharton Street

From Lloyd Square, I walked downhill along Wharton Street, a broad but quiet street that leads to King’s Cross Road.

Granville Street

It crosses Granville Street, which comes in two parts, one either side of the Square. I continued on down to the main road, however.

King’s Cross Road

I came down to the road as I wanted to photograph Gwynne Place from here.

Gwynne Place from King’s Cross Road

Gwynne Place, or Granville Place as it then was, would have looked very different in Bennett’s day. The main occupant now is a huge Travelodge hotel.

Map of Granville Square

The map shows Granville Square. The famous steps are below the square on the SW side. If you want to explore the area, this link will take you to a live version of the map.

Riceyman Steps

Passing through Gwynne Place brings you to the famous steps themselves with a glimpse into Granville Square at the top.

A closer view

Here is a closer view of the steps. In its listing, Historic England says there are 20 steps but when I climbed them this morning, I counted 28.

Looking back down the steps

There is a broad landing about halfway up (or down) the steps, which may offer some relief to the climber as the individual treads are quite high. As far as nomenclature is concerned, the Council includes the steps as part of Gwynne Place but as Historic England refers to them as Riceyman Steps, I think we can do so too!

Numbers 29 to 38

The Square was built in the 1840s and the houses on three of the sides all date from then. The houses in the photo (nos 29 to 38) can claim to be different. In the above map, notice the double line of dashes to the south of Gwynne Place. It marks the position of tracks belonging to London Underground. Several lines pass that way now but the first to be built was the Metropolitan Line. When the diggings reached here, subsidence caused this row of houses to collapse! They were rebuilt according to the original design in 1845-6.

Near neighbours

Looking at them carefully and comparing them with other houses in the square, I could not see any difference. There are small design differences around the square, something typical of the period, but there is nothing now to distinguish 29-38 from their neighbours.

Granville Square Garden

In the centre of the Square is a garden. This provides a pleasant amenity not only for the local inhabitants but also for any members of the public who wish to enjoy it.

Children’s playground and basketball court

In addition to grass, shrubs and trees – some quite ancient – with benches to sit on, there is a children’s playground and a basketball court. One thing that there is not is a church, whether dedicated to St Andrew or to anyone else.

So, was the church in “Riceyman Square” just an invention of the author, Arnold Bennett, conjured up by necessity of the plot? Not exactly. There was once a church here, dedicated to St Philip. Designed by Edward Buckton Lamb, it was built in 1831-33, thus preceding the houses by a decade. What happened to it? The Metropolitan Line happened! As well as damaging numbers 29 to 38 its also damaged the church which was repaired in 1860. This did not save it, however, and the church was demolished in 1936. Careful inspection of the square by me this morning revealed no vestige of it, not even, as in other cases, gravestones placed around the perimeter.

On this page you will find pictures of Gwynne Place and a glimpse of the church. They are right down at the bottom of the page (I cannot reproduce them as they as copyright). You could compare them wih my photos taken roughly from the same viewpoints.

If you would like to read Arnold Bennet’s Riceyman Steps for ourself, you can download a free epub version from Gutenberg.

And finally, the name of Gwynne Place: this was possibly named after Nell Gwynne, who is said to have had a summer residence near here, but more likely after John Gwynne (1713-86) the architect.

The weather is cloudy today with the threat of rain, typical bank holiday weather, wouldn’t you say? Nonetheless, we made the effort to go out for a ramble in the City.

St John Street

We started by going to the bus stop in St John Street where we had a choice of buses.

Aboard the 153

The bus we chose was the single-deck 153.

Near the Barbican

We left the bus at the bottom end of Goswell Road near the Barbican and started walking.

Charterhouse Square

We came to Charterhouse Square, a historically interesting corner of London.

A cobbled road

There are ancient and not so ancient buildings in the square but the site’s age is indicated by the road which is still cobbled.

One of the older buildings

As well as the buildings, which seem to be a mixture of residential and office accommodation, there is a central garden.

Charterhouse Square Garden

The garden was closed so we could not go in and explore.

The Charterhouse

The most important building in the square, and the one that gives it its name, is the Charterhouse itself. Built originally as a Carthusian monastery (hence the name) in 1371, following dissolution of the monasteries in 1547, it became a Tudor house. It has also served as a school, while part of it became an almshouse, a use it still has. Last but not least, the original building was founded on a plague pit! The Charterhouse can be visited though today it was closed.

Chequerboard wall

Here is another view of the complex, showing the chequerboard-patterned wall.

The Fox and Anchor

In Charterhouse Street is this fine pub called the Fox and Anchor. It was built in 1898 and is a Grade II listed building.

Smithfield Market

We passed the famous Smithfield Market. The present building is Victorian but the “smooth field”, on which it was built and from which it took its name, served as a place of trade from time immemorial. It was also at one time a place of execution. More details of its history will be found here.

Farringdon Station, Elizabeth Line

On a corner stands a new station. It is part of the new Elizabeth Line. The station is not yet open because the Elizabeth Line has not yet been finished.

The Old Red Cow

We came to the Old Red Cow. What looks like a passageway belonging to the pub is actually a public path leading to…

Passageways…

…a maze of passageways and…

Deserted streets

…and narrow streets. At weekends and bank holidays the area us deserted and feels oddly like a film set rather than part of a living and functioning city.

St Bartholomew the Great

We arrived near the entrance of the Church of St Bartholomew the Great, founded in 1123 as an Augustinian priory. It can be visited though we didn’t go in today.

St Bartholomew’s Hospital

Here too is St Bartholomew’s Hospital, known familiarly as “St Barts”, which was also founded in 1123.

London Vitality 10,000

As we continued on, we found ourselves in the midst of a huge crowd of runners. They were taking part in an event called the London Vitalty 10,000. I have no idea what that is.

Greyfriars

We passed by the garden and remnant building of Greyfriars and…

Postman’s Park

…entered Postman’s Park, a famous public garden which was originally the churchyard of St Botolph-without-Aldersgate.

G.F. Watts’s Memorial to Heroic Self Sacrifice

One of the park’s well known features is G.F. Watts’s Memorial to Heroic Self Sacrifice, a collection of ceramic plates with the names of people who gave their lives to save others.

Part of the memorial

George Frederick Watts (1817-1904) was a painter and sculptor who created his Memorial to Heroic Self Sacrifice in the last years of the 19th and early years of the 20th century.

Barbican Cinema

After a longish walk, we made our way back to the Barbican and, in particular, the section containing the Barbican Cinema. We were interested in its cafe!

Barbican Cinema Cafe

The cafe is a pleasant venue and we snaffled two comfortable armchairs.

Coffee and muffins

We ordered coffee and muffins.

Chiswell Street

Afterwards, we went to the bus stop in Chiswell Road.

Aboard the 153

We soon had a number 153 bus which carried us home to the Angel. In the picture, the bus is passing through the tunnel under the Barbican Estate.

As usual, we went round to Sainsbury’s this morning to do our weekly shopping. We were careful not to arrive too early as they open only at 11 am on Sundays.

Still queueing

We were annoyed, then, to find a static queue waiting outside the shop even though it was well after opening time. We waited… and we waited… and we waited. Eventually, some Sainsbury’s employees appeared, bearing a message: they could not open the the shop because the shutter over the doors was jammed and it would be at least an hour before the problem was resolved.

We decided, rather than going home and coming back later to a shop that might still be inaccessible, to give up on them for today. We will try again either tomorrow or Tuesday after work.

In Mercer’s

We made our way back home via Chapel Market and Mercer’s where we picked up our usual coffees.

Aboard the 205

Tigger had an idea of somewhere where could go for lunch. For this, we took a number 205 bus to Shoreditch. It was packed but we managed to find seats upstairs.

The Crown and Shuttle

We left the bus in Shoreditch High Street opposite this fine old pub, the Crown and Shuttle, dating, in its current form, from 1885.

Street artists at work

Nearby was a large building site with newly erected screens. We saw that street artists had already gathered and started work, decorating the screens with their own paintings.

Shoreditch High Street

It turned out that our intended lunch place was closed so we starting walking, looking for an alternative.

Church of St Leonard

We walked past the Church of St Leonard, half-hidden by its trees.

The railway bridge

We passed under the railway bridge.

We looked at several cafes and restaurants along the way but nothing appealed to us.

Paula’s Cafe

After a long walk, we found ourselves in Haggerston where we spotted Paula’s Cafe and decided to give it a try.

In Paula’s Cafe

The cafe was quite small and was busy so we had a while to wait but were served eventually.

Crondall Street

Afterwards, we went to a bus stop for the 394 in Crondall Street. We had to wait 23 minutes for the next bus.

Aboard the 394

Because of the long wait, when the bus arrived it quickly became crowded but as we were the first at the stop, we did manage to find seats. The bus follows a complicated route round the backstreets but it brings us at last back to the Angel.

This has been a strange day, what with Sainsbury’s not being able to open this morning. Happily, though, because of the bank holiday, we have another day to ourselves tomorrow. I don’t know yet how we will spend it but we will certainly think of something to do!

Our day started, as all good days do, with breakfast.

Busy Upper Street

We set out along a busy Upper Street, dodging the crowds as best we could. At least the sun was shining, giving a cheerful atmosphere.

Gallipoli

Our destination was Gallipoli, the Turkish restaurant in Islington, not the peninsula in Turkey.

Sunshine inside Gallipoli
Photo by Tigger

They offered us a table at the rear of the restaurant where the ceiling was open to the sky, letting in the sunshine. We were happy to agree. We both had a Turkish breakfast (substituting extra halloumi in place of sausage). I had Turkish tea and Tigger had ayran.

Old Post Office

Afterwards, we crossed the road to the bus stop opposite the lovely old Post Office, now “redeveloped” under the silly name of “Islington Square”.

Aboard the 43

We caught a number 43 bus going to London Bridge Station.

London Bridge Bus Station

At London Bridge Bus Station, Tigger looked around at the available buses but saw nothing to inspire her.

London Bridge Walk

We crossed the bus station and followed a passage called London Bridge Walk.

London Bridge

This led us to the beginning of London Bridge itself. (Remember, London Bridge is not the one with towers. That is Tower Bridge. So many people – even some Brits, I am ashamed to say – make that mistake.) If you look carefully at the above photo, you will see that all along the bridge, the pedestrian path is separated from the roadway by vehicle-proof barriers. These were put in place after the 2017 terrorist attack against pedestrians crossing the bridge.

Somewhere in Brixton

At the bus stop on the bridge we caught a number 133 bus (we had to sit at the back so no photo!) which carried us to Brixton, a district of South London.

The Ritzy Picturehouse

Here we entered the Ritzy Picturehouse, not to watch a film (though with 4 screens the Ritzy offers plenty of choice) but…

Inside the Ritzy’s cafe

…because it has a cafe where we could take a coffee break.

We then went walking, taking note of anything of interest such as the building above and…

…this one. I have not had time to research them so cannot say anything about them other than that they are interesting and aesthetically pleasing.

Brixton Covered Market

Brixton has a market that was open today. It has an open-air section (that we did not visit) and a picturesque covered market, dating from the 1920s and 1930s.

Reliance Arcade

The market also includes the Reliance Arcade. This is very narrow and as there is no room for customers in the tiny shops or stalls, they congregate in the passage, making in difficult for others to walk through. I hate to think what would happen if ever there was an emergency such as a fire or bomb alert.

Brixton Town Hall

We walked up Acre Lane, passing the above building, opened in 1908, which is known to many as “Brixton Town Hall” when, officially, it should be called Lambeth Town Hall after the borough to which it, and Brixton, belong.

Trinity Homes

We passed these almshouses, Trinity Homes, dating from 1822. They are now Grade II listed.

Tiring Acre Lane

Acre Lane is quite long and there didn’t seem a lot of interest to be found in it but perhaps that was because I was beginning to feel tired from our long walk. I was in agreement with Tigger when she proposed catching a bus back.

Aboard the 135

We caught a 135 bus which carried us all the way back across the Thames to more familiar realms.

Bishopsgate

The bus deposited us in Bishopsgate, near Liverpool Street Station, in the City.

Arcade

We walked along the arcaded pavement to a certain oasis, familiar to Tigger who comes here often on work days.

Black Sheep Coffee, Bishopsgate

In other words, the local branch of Black Sheep Coffee, where we drank coffee and rested.

In Black Sheep Coffee

We sat outside on the terrace as the sun had now warmed the air so that it felt almost like a summer’s day. Will this good weather last through the bank holiday?

Aboard the 205

Leaving Black Sheep, we caught a number 205 bus (the bus that brings Tigger home from her workplace) back to the Angel and home.

Monday is May bank holiday. Will the weather behave? We shall have to wait and see and decide our activities according to the weather on the day. ‘Twas ever thus, in these sea-girt islands.

Periodically, I need to replenish my stock of batteries for my hearing aids. They are supplied by the Audiology Department of the Whittington Hospital.

I always used to visit the hospital and pick up my supply in person but then came the Covid-19 pandemic when such visits were not permitted. Instead, I would send a stamped and self-addressed envelope with a covering note to the Audiology Department and they would send back the envelope with the new batteries inside.

The time has now come to put in a request for batteries and I decided that I should start visiting the hospital again rather than sending a letter. The easiest and quickest way to reach the Whittington is to take the tube, another thing that I have not done for quite a while.

The busy streets at the Angel

Off I went into the busy streets of the Angel. Happily, the sun is shining and there is no hint of rain.

Angel Underground Station

The local tube station occupies a site in Islington High Road. The station was rebuilt some years ago and the entrance was moved here from its old position in City Road. Google Maps shows the location correctly but Apple Maps still shows it at the old location – wake up, Apple! (Although the district is called The Angel, London Underground, as it traditionally does, drops the definite article and calls the station simply “Angel”.)

The long escalator

Angel Station has two escalators, a long one and a shorter one. The long one is the longest escalator on the tube system and is the second longest in the UK.

Busker emplacement

On the landing between the two escalators we find this emplacement for a busker. Buskers used to infest the Underground system until London Underground banned free access and established a number of spots where they were allowed to perform. If you want to busk on the Underground now, you have first to apply for a licence and undergo an audition.

On the northbound platform

There are now two separate platforms at Angel Station, the northbound and southbound, respectively. There used to just a single island platform with trains arriving either side of it. As the station became busier and busier and the island ever more crowded, there was a real risk of people being jostled onto the tracks. The station was rebuilt to eliminate that problem.

Aboard the train-

It was now after 10 am and the rush hour was over so the train was not too crowded and I found a seat without difficulty. At Camden Town, north of Angel, the line divides, one branch running to Edgware and the other to High Barnet. The latter is the one I must take.

Leaving the train at Archway

I must travel 6 stops to Archway Station.

Up the escalator to the exit

On leaving the train at Archway, you have first a normal staircase of 20 steps to negotiate and then you ride the escalator up to street level.

Outside Archway Station

The entrance to Archway Station is smaller than the one at the Angel. It seems almost lost among the shops and cafes especially as there is now a large fruit stall in front of it, partially hiding it from the street.

Girdlestone Park

The tube station is in Junction Road. I walk a little way along this and turn right up Vorley Road until I come to Girdlestone Park which is part of the Girdlestone Estate.

A path through the estate

There is a path through the park (running behind the red and white bollard in the photo) which also leads between buildings of the estate into Magdala Avenue where the hospital resides – assuming that it is open. On one occasion I find it closed and had to go on a detour.

The oath is open

Yes, the path was open. It leads beside utility buildings and passes under a pedestrian bridge to the avenue.

The Whittington Hospital

I arrived in Magdala Avenue and the Whittington Hospital. The name of course refers to Sir Richard Whittington (the “Dick Whittington” of the nursery rhymes and tales). The hospital has a black cat as its symbol and you might be able to make it out in the photo, above and to the right of the entrance.

On entering, you first encounter a short escalator and staircase. Next, I have to go up to the fourth floor. I have two choices: take the lift or climb the stairs. Guess which I chose.

Resting on the fourth floor

I took the stairs. There are six flights of eleven steps each, or 66 steps in all. I used to trot up these without a second thought but today, when I reached the top and found some seats, I sat down for a rest. I consoled myself with the thought that going down would be easier.

I went to the Audiology Department office and collected my batteries. Then I went back to the staircase. And yes, going down is easier!

Girdlestone Park

I went back down the path and then through Girdlestone Park. In addition to greenery with benches, it also has a children’s playground and a basketball court.

The Archway

Now, you can’t go to Archway (the district) and not take a photo of the Archway (the road bridge), well, can you? It’s a way up the road and so I could take only a distance shot but you’ll find a better photo elsewhere (for example, in Briefly in Muswell Hill).

The Archway Tavern

For good measure, I also photographed this handsome Victorian pub (built is its present form in 1888). The clock, which, curiously, is partly hidden behind decoration, is not working, unfortunately.

Old Archway Hospital

I also photographed this large building, not all of which I could squeeze into the frame. In my first draft of this post I was unable to identify the building but can now give the following information:

The building is old Archway Hospital (though it had several different names at various times), opened in 1879 and functioning as a hospital until 1980. From 1998 to 2013, University College London and Middlesex University ran it jointly as a campus for teaching and research. The complex has now been sold for redevelopment into luxury apartments. For more details see Lost Hospitals of London.

Down the Archway escalator

Then I made my way back to the tube station and took the escalator down to the depths where the platforms are.

The train arrives

I boarded a train for (the) Angel and travelled the six stops to my home station.

Up the Underground’s longest escalator

Then I rode the Underground’s longest escalator up to the street from where I was soon home.

The batteries

And here, finally, is what all the fuss was about: my new supply of batteries. (I have hidden the manufacturer’s name so as not to be accused profiting from advertising! 🙂 ) If I’m careful, these will last up to 12 weeks. Then, another trip to the Whittington will be required!