We set off without hurry, having no specific plans in mind. The weather is grey with occasional bursts of sunshine.

Walking along Upper Street

We walked along Upper Street, heading towards Islington Green.

Christmas wreaths on sale

A lot of shops were closed for Christmas but this florist’s shop was open, and still selling Christmas wreaths.

Islington Green

We reached the Green which is looking rather dull in its winter-drab costume.

Caffè Nero

You may have guessed that we were making for Caffè Nero to take in fuel for the next part of our outing.

Aboard the 43

After our coffee break, we caught a number 43 bus. It was quite full but we found seats in front upstairs.

Muswell Hill

The bus carried us to Muswell Hill where we set out on foot.

Muswell Hill Broadway

We walked along Muswell Hill Broadway, thinking about the possibility of having lunch.

Côte Brasserie

We came upon the local branch of Côte Brasserie and studied the menu posted on the window. According to this, breakfast was served until 12:30 and, as it was now 12:15, we hurried inside.

Inside Côte Brasserie
Photo by Tigger

Though many tables were reserved, they managed to fit us in. The menu they gave us didn’t mention breakfast so we asked about it. They said breakfast was finished and we could choose something from the brunch menu. So we got up to leave and this had the desired effect: they agreed to cook us the vegetarian breakfast.

Vegetarian breakfast

Thus we had breakfast for lunch!

Not a church – a steakhouse

After our breakfast-lunch, we went walking again. We passed this building that was obviously built as a church but is now serving as a steakhouse.

Looking down Hillfield Park

This view down Hillfield Park shows clearly that this district is indeed on top of a hill.

Still a church – St James

This building is still operating as a church. It is called St James Muswell Hill.

The Everyman Cinema

We passed the Everyman Cinema. Previously an Odeon cinema, it was built in 1835-6 and is a Grade II* listed building.

United Reformed Church

This building wears its heart in its sleeve or rather, its cross in its façade. It is the local United Reformed Church.

An old police station?

This little building intrigued us. Today is the premises of the Muswell Hill Preschool but we wonder whether it was originally a Victorian police station.

Aboard the 43

After a good walk round the neighbourhood, we caught a number 43 bus back to the Angel.

Back in Upper Street

We left the bus in Upper Street at the stop for Angel Station.

Redemption Roasters

Before returning home, we thought we could fit in one more coffee and made for Redemption Roasters in the High Street.

Duncan Street

To return home, we took a roundabout way rather than going straight there. We started off by taking Duncan Street.

Duncan Terrace

This led us into Duncan Terrace beside the gardens covering this stretch of the New River.

Illuminated star

Christmas decorations were in evidence here and there, like this illuminated star in a window, but seemed to me much much fewer and less elaborate than in previous years.

Christmas wreath

There were also a few wreaths on doors, like this sample, but again, it seemed to me that they were fewer than in past years.

“Bug hotels”

We ventured into Duncan Terrace Gardens to look at this array of miscellaneous “bug hotels”, presumably installed by the Council. I hope that, come the spring, they will find tenants.

The Angel crossroads

We arrived at the Angel crossroads, which was as busy as usual, and from here soon arrived home.

I have to say that it doesn’t feel like Christmas Eve to me but just like any other Saturday. Not that that matters particularly because the company of the one I love always makes any day a festive occasion.

As today was the last working day before Christmas, Tigger was allowed to leave the office at noon. As she left, she sent me a text so I knew she was on her way. (However did we manage our lives before the smartphone was invented?!)

Walking through Chapel Market

I walked though a fairly busy Chapel Market, heading for the bus stop at Islington Green where Tigger would arrive aboard a number 43 bus.

Upper Street, Islington Green
Photo by Tigger

Following our joyous reunion, we walked down the road to Caffè Nero.

Coffee break at Caffè Nero
Photo by Tigger

Here we enjoyed a coffee break and caught up with one another’s adventures. Tigger then told me she had booked us a table at Bellanger as a Christmas treat.

Bellanger

At the appointed time, we crossed the road to Islington Green beside which stands Bellanger’s French-style restaurant. This is one of our favourites but as it’s a little bit pricey we visit it sparingly.

Bellanger’s reception

We were received at the reception desk and, our reservation having been checked, were led to our table.

The table is laid
Photo by Tigger

The restaurant was busy – all tables were occupied – so there was a little wait for the food to arrive. Bellanger has a number of vegetarian items on the menu, happily.

Christmas tree
Photo by Tigger

Tigger photographed Bellanger’s Christmas tree…

The décor

…while I photographed the décor.

It might be my imagination, though I think not, that this year shops and businesses are displaying much less in the way of Christmas decorations than in previous years. Is this because of a need to save money and cut costs or a reflection of the mood of austerity in the country? Or perhaps it has to do with the fact that the UK is no longer a Christian country: in the 2021 census, only 46.2% of respondents claimed to be Christian. That means that the majority of shoppers are out to acquire their share of festive cheer but without the need of religious claptrap to justify doing so.

Crème Brûlée

I won’t bore you with our menu but just mention that we had our favourite dessert, crème brûlée.

Islington Green in the rain

Leaving the restaurant, we found that the naughty weather had disobeyed the Met Office’s forecast. Instead of the promised dry conditions, it was pelting down with rain.

Nothing daunted, we put our heads down and hurried to our next destination: Sainsbury’s. As Christmas Day falls on our usual shopping day, Sunday, we were going to do our shopping today instead.

Sainsbury’s was busy

Unsurprisingly, Sainsbury’s was quite busy but we persevered and collected our items.

At the checkout, the bill was about average for our weekly shopping trips. However, during the year, we save up our “points” (see The points game) and redeem them at Christmas and the New Year. As a result, today’s bill came to a princely £1.43! And we still have some credit left over for the New Year.

It was still raining when we left Sainsbury’s but we were soon home. Having put away the shopping and made tea, we have the rest of the day to ourselves!

The cold snap has ended and the temperature has risen to 12°C. The rain yesterday and again today has washed away the remsining snow.

Tigger has a clinic appointment this afternoon and is leaving the office at 12:30. I am to meet her from work to make the most of an extra half-day together.

Aboard the 205

Leaving plenty of time (traffic delays are frequent in London), I caught a number 205 bus to the City.

Aboard the 100

By the time we reached St Botolphe’s Street, where I changed to a 100, it was raining hard and there was a stiff breeze blowing. (I installed my hat lock but still nearly lost my hat a couple of times in blustery gusts.)

St Katharine Docks

On arrival at the office complex, despite the weather, I paid my ritual visit to St Katharine Docks, though I didn’t stay long.

Tea at Pret

Close to Tigger’s office is a branch of Pret A Manger. I went in and ordered a cup of black tea. I can hang out here in the warm and proceed across to the office nearer 12:30.

The atrium

Nearer the time, I went and sat in the atrium of the office block. It is as tall as the whole building (6 or 7 floors) and I’m glad I don’t have to pay their heating bill!

Aboard the 153

We started our journey on 100 and then changed to a 153.

Somewhere in Hornsey

We left the bus somewhere in Hornsey. Checking the clinic’s address, we found we had come to the wrong place. Then followed a mad rush (no time for photos) to reach the right place, preferably by the appointment time. Somehow we made it!

Reception

I waited in the reception/waiting area, getting my breath back, while Tigger went for her appointment.

Aboard the 63

The appointment concluded, we walked back to the Holloway Road and a bus stop (which happens to be in front of the polytechnic, now university, where I taught for two and a half decades) and boarded a number 63 bus. It was rather full but we found seats upstairs at the front from where I took this photo.

The Workers Cafe

We left the bus at the Town Hall in Upper Street and walked down to the Workers Cafe (no apostrophe).

Inside the Workers Cafe

We haven’t been here for a while and so it was good to renew our acquaintance with it. We had a pleasant and unhurried lunch.

A view of Upper Street

In the interest of meeting Tigger’s daily walking target, we did not take the bus but returned home on foot. It was raining, though not too heavily, and the temperature was quite pleasant compared with the cold of the last few days.

Approaching Almeida Passage

Rather than follow the busy main road, we turned off up Almeida Street. At the other end of this street is a quaint narrow passage through a row of houses. It is called, reasonably enough, Almeida Passage. You need to know it’s there as you would never spot it from the main road.

Gibson Square

The passage leads into Gibson Square (and even here is easy to miss as the entrance looks like just another of the doorways belonging to the terrace of houses), a quiet and rather secluded neighbourhood.

The “chalet”

I’ve written about Gibson Square before (type its name into the search box), see, for example, Three squares. The central garden contains a curious “feature”: what looks like a chalet but is in fact a disguised ventilation shaft for the Underground line running below it. There is a better photo of it in the post mentioned above.

The Royal Agricultural Hall

We walked down Liverpool Road, passing the old Royal Agricultural Hall (opened 1862) and now recast as the Business Design Centre.

Amwell Street

We came at last into Amwell Street. The light was fading fast by now and the rain was seemingly trying to persuade us to go home but we had one more call to make first.

Myddelton’s deli

We ended today’s outing where we so often start our outings, at Myddelton’s deli. It was not for coffee today, however, but for Tigger to order a Christmas gift to be sent to a friend.

After that, we made our way home and I, for one, was glad to arrive as my feet were reminding me that we had done a lot of walking today, despite the bus rides. Tigger managed to “close the ring” (see Dull Sunday for an explanation) and so all’s well that ends well.

The temperature is supposed to have risen today but in exchange we have continuous rain. Nothing daunted, we set out after lunch for today’s ration of walking.

Aboard the 214

We started by boarding a number 214 bus which was rather crowded, though speedy action secured us seats.

Euston Road

We travelled with the 214 only as far as Euston Road.

Aboard the 91

Here we caught a 91 which became quite crowded.

Hornsey Road

The 91 brought us to Hornsey Road where we had a little wait for our next bus, a number 29. This was too crowded for me to take photos.

Wood Green

The bus brought us to Wood Green. The weather was cold and wet but fortunately we could walk in the dry.

Entering the shopping centre

This is because Wood Green has a large shopping centre extending over three floors. In addition, it connects to a market hall, adding the the area available for walking.

Decorated for Christmas

The shopping centre – or “Mall”, as it likes to call itself – is decorated for Christmas and we are subjected to the usual standard Christmas music over the loudspeaker system.

When I was a child, Christmas seemed a rare and yearned for treat. Nowadays, when I hear Christmas music for the first time in shops, I exclaim “What?! Already?!” It must be something to do with age…

Entering the Market Hall

Having toured all the floors of the “Mall”, we walked through into the Market Hall and explored that.

A carpet stall

There are all kinds of goods on sale in the market and the fact that the stalls are open-fronted makes it seem more immediate than shops. If you have a specific purchase in mind, a market is a good place to start as prices are usually lower than in shops.

Costa Coffee

Having completed our walk (Tigger had “closed her ring”), we stopped off at Costa for coffee and toasted sandwiches.

At the bus stop

The weather was chilly and wet so I was glad we had been able to perform our “outing” under cover. We went to a bus stop to begin our journey home.

Aboard the 29

We boarded a number 29 bus which carried us on a longish journey to …

Camden Town

…Camden Town. We managed the return journey in only two buses instead of three, as in the outward run.

Barber with QR code

While waiting for our bus, we noticed that this barber’s shop had in the window an illuminated sign showing its QR code. We will no doubt see more businesses advertising themselves with QR codes as these are compact but carry a lot of information by giving access to their website.

QR codes are useful but also potentially dangerous: one should never scan a QR code unless one is sure it belongs to a reputable company. It’s also worth investing in a QR code reader that filters out malicious codes.

Aboard the 214

A number 214 bus arrived and we went aboard. Though I had enjoyed the outing (and the toasted sandwich), I was glad to arrive home and escape from the cold wet weather. I hope the rain will at least clear away the snow and that the Met Office’s promise of higher temperatures will be borne out.

The cold snap shows signs of easing at last. The temperature today is supposed to rise to a heady 4°C. When we went out mid-morning, though, it was still barely above freezing.

Aboard the 214

We first caught a number 214 bus to start us on our way.

Kentish Town

The 214 brought us to Kentish Town where we changed to a 46.

Hampstead

The 46 carried us up to the hill to Hampstead. (The hill is the reason from Hampstead’s exclusiveness: the horse buses could not manage the stiff slope, meaning that the working classes stayed down below in Camden Town, Somers Town and Kentish Town. By the time motor buses and the London Underground made it to Hampstead, the rich had made it their own.)

Ole & Steen

Before proceeding further, we paid a visit to Ole & Steen for refreshments.

Coffee and croissants

Here we enjoyed coffee and croisants.

Flask Walk

We strolled along the famous passage called Flask Walk on one of whose corners is the equally famous pub, The Flask.

Still snow about

Despite the supposed temperature rise, there was still snow about and one needed to take care not to slip.

Lost his nose

A tiny snowman was looking rather unhappy, not least because he’d already lost his carrot nose.

Christmas wreath

On several front doors, Christmas wreaths had appreared.

Wells and Campden Baths

We passed by the Grade II listed Wells and Campden Baths (1888), now converted to residential use.

Burgh House

We had intended to visit the always interesting Burgh House but, unfortunately, it turned out that…

Burgh House – closed

…Burgh House was closed (the unattended parcel on the doorstep is a clue!).

New End Square

We walked up New End Square.

The Old White Bear

We passed the Old White Bear pub and…

Old Fire Station?

…what looked as if it might have been an old fire station.

Heath Street

Continuing upwards, we reached Heath Street. We turned down-slope to return to Hampstead. (Heath Street was originally the name of what is now called Hampstead Underground Station.)

Heath Street Baptist Church

We passed the Heath Street Baptist Church and…

The Old Horse and Groom

…what was once a famous pub, the Horse and Groom, that has now, sadly perhaps, been diverted to other purposes.

Hampstead Underground Station

We came to the Underground Station on its corner. This is London’s deepest station in the sense of the distance from the surface to the train platforms. This is not because the line is lower here than anywhere else but because the station is high up on the hill and you have to descend through it to reach the trains.

The Community Centre

We went into the Community Centre where a small market was taking place.

Vegetable soup

We stayed in the community centre for lunch. The snack bar provided us with vegetable soup and bread.

Hampstead High Street

We walked down Hampstead High Street, …

The Police Station

…passing the police station. Hampstead is fortunate to still has its police station as many such have been closed in recent times.

Royal Free Hospital

We turned down Pond Street, passing the Royal Free Hospital.

Drinking Fountain, South End Green-

At the bottom of the hill, we came to South End Green with its Grade II listed drinking fountain.

Starbuck’s

Before starting for home, we went into the local branch of Starbuck’s for another round of croissants and coffee. (Well, we had had a relatively meagre lunch!)

Waiting for the bus

After our coffee break, we went to the bus stop to start our journey home. By now, it was feeling a little less cold (the weather forecast was for 4°C at this point) so I hope the cold snap is finally moving away, back to the Arctic where it belongs.

Aboard the 46

A number 46 bus arrived and we went aboard. We changed buses at Kentish Town and reached our little dwelling where we made tea and settled down for a pleasant evening at home.