For weeks now, the media have been predicting that London was about to be assigned to Tier 3 of Covid restrictions. They were wrong, of course. The news, when it was delivered on Saturday evening, was a lot worse. From Thursday night, London enters, if not a lockdown as previously experienced, something pretty close to it.

What this means for Tigger with regard to work, remains to be seen. What we do know, among other facts, is that “non-essential” shops will close completely and only food shops will be allowed to open. Pubs and restaurants must also close except for takeaway service.

From now until Wednesday, we continue under Tier 2, giving us a run at the new regime, so to speak.

This morning, we performed our usual weekly shopping run at Sainsbury’s. We arrived to find a long queue of waiting shoppers but even as we joined the queue, it started to move, quite fast, towards the entrance.

The shopping done, we dragged the shopping trolley home, passing by Jusaka. They were closed. They have been open so intermittently of late that we were not surprised. From Thursday, they will have to operate takeaway only, assuming they manage to open at all.

To cheer ourselves up, Tigger proposed that we go out for lunch, while we still can.

The Castle

The Castle in Pentonville Road serves food on Sundays and its menu includes a vegetable Wellington, suitable for vegetarians. As we had not reserved a table, we were unsure whether they accommodate us. They could; and gave us the corner table that we had last time we ate here, the very table I was hoping for.

A view from the table

By the time we arrived, the place was fairly full and every few minutes more people arrived, hoping for a table.

Vegetable Wellington

The food arrived quite quickly. There was a mixture of vegetables, including “wild mushrooms”, some enclosed in a crust which is the defining feature of a Wellington, with a small, crispy Yorkshire pudding on top.

This is the last time that we shall be able to eat out until the new lockdown ends. This has been set to last until the beginning of December, though it could be extended if the rate of increase of Covid infections has not been reduced sufficiently.

The imposition of lockdown is bad news for the retail sector and for business in general. Tigger is scheduled to go into work on Monday and Tuesday this week. She will presumably learn then what is to happen to her job in the next few weeks.

I wish I believed that the measures taken by the government will be effective and will break the back of the pandemic. Unfortunately, I have no such faith. As long as we practise a stop-go policy of lockdown followed by easing of restrictions, the disease will keep reasserting itself in waves. As with the UK, so with Europe and the rest of the world. Our only hope of beating the pandemic conclusively is the production of an effective vaccine but that seems as far away as it ever was and it is not at all certain that it is even possible to create one.

In the evenings, after supper, we often watch a film, courtesy of the Internet. It suddenly occurred to me that all of these films are in a sense “period dramas”, because they are all set in a pre-Covid world that no longer exists. Will the real world one day again come to resemble the world of those films? I somehow doubt it. Even if we manage to beat the disease down to manageable levels, it will always be there to haunt us and to threaten a resurgence, perhaps in a new form.

After coffee at Jasuka, we set out for a stroll, as usual without any specific idea as to where we would roam.

A dull day in St John Street

We started down St John Street, a fairly long road with many interesting features but from which many roads branch off into a tangle of backstreets.

Southampton Square Gardens and band-stand

We did indeed branch off and entered Southampton Square, a quiet and pleasant residential area with a large central garden. It has a band-stand but I have no idea when music was last played here, if ever at all.

Walking on, we came out into another principal thoroughfare, Goswell Road.

Skeleton, chiropractor’s premises

Goswell Road has a wide variety of shops and cafes and is a busy place. This skeleton stands in the window of a chiropractor’s, presumably in the hope of attracting customers. I’m not sure it attracts me, despite its seemingly cheerful grin.

Tigger pointed out that it was now lunchtime. This was a serendipitous thought because we happened to be in front of an establishment called Kennedy’s of Goswell Road.

Kennedy’s, the fish and chips shop

I was dubious because it looked like a fish and chips shop and its menu showed no sign of vegetarian options. However…

Kennedy’s, the restaurant

…adjoining the shop is their restaurant. Nothing daunted, Tigger went within and asked to see a menu. As we had hoped, this contained a desirable item, suitable for us pesky vegetarians: deep fried Halloumi and chips! We took a seat and happily ordered lunch.

Kennedy’s, interior

The interior is clean and well ordered. Notice the big fish on the counter. I would describe the decor as functional apart from one intriguing detail.

Chandelier

This detail is a pair of very decorative chandeliers, shining brightly. A strangely luxurious touch.

Gee Street Courthouse

We entered Gee Street, a quiet residential backstreet. I was quite surprised to discover a courthouse sited here. I had no idea this courthouse even existed, especially in this relatively out-of-the-way location.

Old pub

This now anonymised building can only have been a pub. The band above the windows where its beers and wines would have been advertised and the characteristic blanked rectangle above the door that would have held the pub’s name, all point to this conclusion.

Despite a search of the various “dead pub” sites, I have not found any record of the premises as a pub. This probably means that it closed as a pub long ago. Does anyone still remember its name, I wonder?

Unnamed path

We followed this path through a an open area. On one side is grass and on the other, fenced in, hockey pitches. The path probably does have a name but I don’t know what it is.

Hockey pitches

The pitch may look like grass but it is a grass that never needs cutting and never needs watering, artificial turf, in other words. Practical, I suppose.

St Luke’s Garden

We entered St Luke’s Garden and tarried a while, sitting on a bench. The name comes from the fact that what is now a garden was once part of the churchyard of the nearby St Luke’s Church. Cemeteries within London were closed in 1853 and many have been landscaped to form public gardens, adding to the capital’s treasure of green spaces.

Bird feeder

In front of our bench stood a bird feeder. It contains lumps of fat-rich food for small birds. It has been designed to be squirrel-proof and pigeon-proof. Only small birds can pass through the holes in the netting. There were no customers for the food while we were there though a pigeon did briefly and unsuccessfully try to reach the food while fluttering and clinging to the netting.

Ironmonger Row Baths

On leaving the garden, we stopped to photograph this establishment. In large letters it describes itself as the Ironmonger Row Baths. It was built in the 1930s as a public baths and wash-house. I believe it also had a Turkish bath at some point. Nowadays it is a gymnasium. More information here.

Old pub, future uncertain

On the corner of Dingley Road with Dingley Place stands another old pub. This one still retains its advertising though the name has been expunged. I was able to find records of this one: it was called the Princess Alice until it closed and later became the cab office of City Radio Cars. This company also moved out, leaving the building secured but unoccupied for nine years, after which the Council made plans to acquire it by compulsory purchase. I don’t know whether this has gone through or what is planned for it. Time will tell.

A twitten called Nelson Passage

Tigger set off down what I would call a “twitten”, a Sussex word learned in my childhood. It means a narrow passage between buildings or walls and that description fits this path whose official name is Nelson Passage.

Old fire hydrant

We found ourselves in Mora Street. I thought we had arrived here by chance but we hadn’t. Tigger had come here on purpose. She looked for and found this old fire hydrant and photographed it for her collection. Don’t underestimate Tiggers!

Oh look, it’s City Road

When we emerged onto a main road, I was for a moment disoriented and didn’t know where we were. It looked familiar but because I wan’t expecting to be here, I experienced a moment of uncertainty. Tigger, of course, knew exactly where we were, having led us here: City Road.

The bus stop

We were also quite near this bus stop. Within a couple of minutes, a number 394 arrived and carried us up the road the the clock tower where we collected our cups which we had left at Jusaka and made our way home.

And finally, here are some flowers from Tigger:

Hedge flowers
Photo by Tigger

As Tigger’s week of holiday is passing apace, we decided to do something a little more adventurous today than a ramble in the neighbourhood.

Aboard the 73

We boarded a 73 bus, finding rear-facing seats at the back. These are our favourite seats on these buses because there is reasonable leg room and it’s near the rear exit.

Oxford Street

We left the bus in Oxford Street. As you can see, it is a damp grey day. It’s not cold, fortunately, as long as you keep moving.

Ramillies Place

From Oxford Street, Tigger led me through some backstreets which had the advantage of being virtually deserted. Needless to say, I had no idea where we were going but tagged along happily enough.

Ramillies Road

The Place led to Ramillies Road and this led, eventually, to…

Carnaby Street

…Carnaby Street. The street is still much visited and tries hard to seem as trendy and exciting as it was when it first sprang to prominence but the glitter of those days is long past. These days it’s a street of rather ordinary fashion boutiques.

Alley between builders’s screens

Then we scurried through more narrow ways, like this one hemmed in by screens put up for building works. These have at least been colourfully decorated by street artists.

More builders’ screens

Then it was a tunnel between more screens, not decorated, these.

Liberty’s

This at last brought us to Liberty’s store. The first door we tried was exit only while inside we found one if the staircases labelled “Up Only”. All because of Covid, of course. Happily, the store was not very busy. We took the lift (no one in it but us) up to the fourth floor.

Light-well from the fourth floor

I photographed the light-well, as I always do, partly because it’s impressive and partly because it makes me nervous. (Height phobia… 🙂 )

Post your wish-list to Santa here

A “feature” in the store is this facsimile posting box for children to post their wish-lists to Santa Claus, a “hook” to draw children, and therefore parents with money, into the store.

Reindeer

We came upon this patient creature in his corner. I’m not sure whether he is decor or is for sale. Either or both, perhaps.

So much to see

With four floors packed with stock, there is a lot to see, all of it good quality. We cane, we looked and we bought nothing.

Carnaby Street once more

We took the lift down (again as the only occupants) and exited into Carnaby Street once more. Then off we went through the by-ways again.

Name unknown

I don’t know the name if this passage though the banner at the end declares it to be part of something called the Newburgh Quarter.

Newburgh Street

This is definitely Newburgh Street which I suppose is the main axis of “Quarter” of the same name. It is pedestrian only which allows stalls to be set up in the roadway.

Group

In Ham Court, we paused to photograph this creation by Tony Cragg, entitled Group. I would describe this as “interesting” and leave it at that.

Arcade

We passed through another arcade, this one beside Shaftsbury Avenue, and after a few more twists and turns and risking life and limb crossing the busy roads, we arrived at Trafalgar Square.

The End

Whereas most of the statues and other objects in Trafalgar Square are permanent, the so called Fourth Plinth is used to show a series of artworks, each of which resides there for a period before giving way to a new one. The works have been known to cause controversy. This one, by Heather Phillipson, is called The End and represents a twist of cream, topped by a cherry. On it is a blowfly and, bizarrely, an object with four spinning propellors, looking rather like a drone. It is said to represent hubris and collapse. Make of that what you will.

Nelson on his column

The focus of Trafalgar Square is of course Nelson’s column. The victor of the Battle of Trafalgar has rested upon his pinnacle peacefully since 1843 but just recently there have been voices raised in criticism of his attitudes to other races and calls to have the stature removed. It is hard to imagine Trafalgar Square without Nelson. Could it possibly happen?

St Martin-in-the-Fields

A less controversial landmark is the nearby Church of St Martin-in-the-Fields. The surrounding fields have long since all been built on but the picturesque name survives. The church had a long history going back well to before the Normans though it has been altered and extended many times. You will find more details here.

Opposite Heal’s, Tottenham Court Road

We caught a bus at Trafalgar Square and changed in Tottenham Court Road. As it was a weekday, traffic was beginning to build up. Progress along Tottenham Court Road was very slow and we had a while to wait for our next bus. Part of the reason is that the creation of separate lanes foe cyclists has led to a narrowing of the road, sometimes reducing the width to single file for motor vehicles. Unsurprisingly, this has led to longer queues of vehicles and consequent delays and disgruntled motorists.

On the way home

When the bus arrived, the lower deck was full so we had to go upstairs. Fortunately, one of the front seats was free. These buses are very cramped on the upper deck but the front seats have a little more leg room.

This ride home ended today’s “adventure”.

We started with a ritual visit to Jusaka but found it closed. A notice on the window cited a water leak as the cause. Will they be open tomorrow? Time will tell.

Islington High Street

We set off on a ramble, intending to find coffee along the way. At midmorning on a weekday, the streets are busy. The main road starts as Islington High Street until it reaches Liverpool Street on the left on from then on is known as Upper Street. I suspect that many people are unaware of this and think the whole belongs to Upper Street.

HSBC Bank
previously the White Lion

On the corner of the High Street and White Lion Street stands this handsome building. Today, the ground floor is occupied by the HSBC Bank and I assume the upper floors are offices. This is the site of the White Lion inn from which the street takes its name. The original inn dates from 1714 but I don’t know whether this is the original building or (as I think more likely) a later rebuild. More work needed!

Antiques stalls, Camden Passage

Leading off to the right and running parallel with the main road is a lane lined with shops and restaurants called Camden Passage. It was once known as an important centre for antiques shops and stalls (there is an antiques market on Wednesdays and Saturdays) but since the antiques stalls were evicted from the Tram Shed, a decline in the antique business has set in. Today there were some stalls operating but very few compared with the antiques heyday.

Camden Passage itself continues to be a lively place with a mixture of shops and restaurants.

Kiperl, an Austrian-style coffee house

We happened upon this Austrian-styled coffee shop called Kipferl. We had to queue for a short while but, once inside, found plenty of tables free.

As is becoming common in restaurants, each table has a card bearing QR codes. These enable you to register your presence and present you with their menu.

Coffee and cake
Photo by Tigger

We had come in for coffee but allowed ourselves to be tempted by the display of cakes. (Note that they serve a glass of water with each cup of coffee.)

Islington Green

Camden Passage eventually merges into the main road near Islington Green but here, that main road is Essex Road that branches off Upper Street to the right.

Essex Road

Essex Road is, like Upper Street, lined with shops, cafes and other businesses. Though perhaps not as busy as Upper Street, it is just as interesting and had its own character.

Alfredo’s Snack Bar

Very noticeable (not least for the now improbable prices of its ice cream) is this Grade II listed cafe restaurant. Originally called Alfredo’s Snack Bar, it dates from the 1930s. Its chrome and Vitrolite decor suggests (to me, at any rate) the American diners of the period. We came here often at one point when it was a branch of Sausage & Mash. As well as the usual meaty sausages, they served very tasty veggie sausages and gravy. They are missed!

South Library

South Library is one of Islington’s five public libraries. On the drainpipe hoppers its completion date of 1916 is still proudly displayed. It is Grade Ii listed.

Elaborate doorway

In contrast to the relatively plain façade, is the elaborate doorway with its recessed window and deep pediment. It bears a motto in Latin: DEUS PER OMNIA (“God pervades all”), though why this is so I do not know. Islington’s motto is WE SERVE.

Street art portrait

On a side-street wall we spotted this large piece of street art. I don’t know who the artist is (if any of the scribbles are a signature, they are not legible). The included text, “You must be the change you wish to see in the world”, is often ascribed to Mahatma Ghandi and the portrait is therefore presumably meant to be his though, personally, I don’t find it a very good likeness.

Discount store window display

Tigger needed to make a purchase and went into this discount store while I waited outside. The window displays contains a mixture of face masks for Covid and fantasy Hallowe’en masks, making a curious contrast.

Old Carlton Cinema

This is the old Carlton Cinema, built in the 1930s and famous for its decor inspired by Ancient Egyptian motifs. Like many cinemas, this one became a bingo hall and was more recently occupied by a religious group. It looks rather abandoned at the moment but perhaps that is just a result of the pandemic.

How we live now – queueing at the Post Office

We noticed this scene on a street corner. I think the picture and the caption say all that needs to be said.

White building – unknown history

Our attention was caught by this large white building, prominent on its corner site. I think it is residential now but looks as though it was built for some other purpose, as a business company’s offices, perhaps. More than that I cannot say. Perhaps more information will turn up later.

Once a bank, now a betting shop

A painted-out inscription on the doorway pediment declares this building to be a bank though does not say which bank. In any case, it is no longer a bank but a betting shop. Neither with this building have I been able to discover its history. Islington still had plenty of secrets to elucidate!

At this point, we felt we had walked enough and so caught a bus back to our district, watching the path we had travelled but now in reverse as though running a film backwards.