London is preparing, and therefore so are we, to enter a Tier 2 lockdown from midnight on Friday. Among the new rules is one that we should avoid “unnecessary” travel and not stray beyond our locality “unless absolutely necessary”. We reckon that if this restriction is necessary from Friday night then surely it is necessary now. In view if this, we made today’s little ramble strictly local.

We started at Jusaka

We started (as those who know us will have guessed) with coffee at Jusaka. Coffee bars are still allowed to open, fortunately, as this is one if our little pleasures.

We next crossed the road into Duncan Terrace. We came here often on our lockdown rambles but today I had a special reason. A corespondent recently asked me about a certain address in this row and, in researching it, I learned that these houses had been built in two waves, numbers 1 to 10 first and 11 onwards some time later. I wanted to see whether it was possible to spot the difference.

Numbers 10 and 11 Duncan Terrace

The above photo shows the putative “join”. It is to the right of the left-hand front door, visible between the two parked cars.

And yes, you can see the difference. Though the bricks are the same snd have weathered to the same colour, you can see a vertical line in the brickwork and differences in the styling of the building. For example, look at the first-floor windows: on the left (number 10), they have straight tops (picked out in red) but on the right (number 11), they have arches. If you are interested in this sort of thing, you may notice other differences.

The house in question, number 12

My correspondent had asked me specifically about number 12 (see above) and so I was interested to see whether we could make out any indications as to its history. I could see none. It’s as plain, neat and tidy as its companions on either side. It’s not giving anything away.

Duncan Terrace and St John the Evangelist

We walked on along Duncan Terrace to Duncan Street. Before turning up this, I took a photo of the next section of the terrace and the sunlit tower of the Catholic church of Saint John the Evangelist.

The —-don Factory
Photo by Tigger

We used sometimes to eat at a small Chinese restaurant in Duncan Street. We knew it had closed down but we were trying to remember exactly where it was. It was here, and has been replaced by this curious establishment that seems to have lost its “Lon”!

The Tram Shed

We reached Upper Street where I photographed the venerable old Tram Shed, basking in the late sunshine. Trams used to run through Islington (and other parts of London, of course) until 1952 when they, and the electric trolley buses, were replaced by diesel powered buses, themselves now being replaced by “hybrid” buses running on diesel and electric batteries.

The Tram Shed is a reminder of the old times. For some years it accommodated an interesting collection of antiques stalls until the owners thought they could make more money renting it out to a sole business. A number of businesses have taken it on but none has survived for very long. I see that it is again empty. This must offer some grim satisfaction to the evicted antiques stall holders…

The Angel Centre

We passed through the Angel Centre, a place of shops, restaurants and a cinema. It is built on two levels and there are open areas and covered areas.

The Angel Wings are still there

The main open area is fenced off and some sort of building works are in progress. I hope this doesn’t mean that it is being built on as that will turn a pleasant open space into a claustrophobic closed one. The Angel Wings are still in place. Whatever you may think of them as art, they have become a familiar Islington landmark.

An aisle in Waitrose

Opposite the Angel Centre, in Liverpool Road, is Sainsbury’s and, next to it, a branch of Waitrose. This is where Tigger was heading.

Sweet biscuits
Photo by Tigger

We passed the shelves of sweet biscuits but ignored their blandishments. Our attention – I mean Tigger’s – was fixed on other things.

The tea shelves
Photo by Togger

Specifically, it (Tigger’s attention, that is) was focussed on the tea shelves where she hoped to find additions to what I am tempted to call her “Tea Library”, a growing collection of different types and flavours of Britain’s favourite hot drink.

Packing up in Chapel Market

The last leg of our homeward journey was through Chapel Market. A few stalls were still serving the remaining customers but the rest had either packed up or were in the throes of doing so. That must be one of the challenges of running a market stall as opposed to a shop. With a shop, at the end of the day you just lock the door whereas if you are a stall-holder, you have to set it all up every day and pack it all away at day’s end. With that and with being out in the open in all weathers, these stall-holders are hardy folk. They have my admiration, anyway!

It is now hard to recall the warm weather that we enjoyed but few weeks ago. We seem set for a typical British winter of mournful cold grey days punctuated with rain and gales.

On Sunday, we performed the usual shopping run to Sainsbury’s and spent the rest of the day at home. Shameful, I know 🙂

Crockery stall, Chapel Market

On the way, we passed through Chapel Market. There were more stalls today than the rather poor showing of recent weeks but it was nothing like we were used to in pre-Covid days. Will those happy times ever return?

Pret A Manger
Photo by Tigger

We realised that in our hurry to finish the shopping we had left a little too early: Sainsbury’s was not yet open. We went into Pret in the Angel Centre to have coffee while we waited. The scene here too was very different from what we were accustomed to. Transparent screens had been erected all along the counter to protect staff and at least half the tables and chairs had been piled in a corner and the rest spread out to allow for social distancing. In the circumstances, it is easy to feel depressed. This, however, is our reality now and we had better make the best if it.

This week, Tigger is going in to the office on Monday, Tuesday and Wednesday and while I could venture out on my own, I feel little inclination to do so.

Trolley packed with laundry

One job needed doing, however. We had accumulated a pile of laundry and it needed to be seen to. Tigger packed it into pillow cases and loaded these into the shopping trolley. On Monday morning (yesterday), I towed it down to the launderette in St John Street for a service wash. They weren’t very busy and so I was able to collect it, washed, dried and folded, later the same day. The provide a good and efficient service.

I think I have mentioned that St John Street slopes downwards from the Angel. The incline is fairly slight and you probably wouldn’t even notice it when walking unencumbered. But you do notice it when dragging a loaded trolley up the hill on the way home!

Today’s job was an errand in Amwell Street. Now that we are not taking our lockdown strolls around the neighbourhood, I have come to miss them. So on the way to Amwell Street, I decided to take a little detour – just for old times’ sake.

The “Curvaceous Tree”

I first visited the “Curvaceous Tree” that lives in the corner of the park in Myddelton Square. It has shed its leaves and is looking rather bare though surrounding vegetation provides a little cover for its nakedness. I am looking forward to the spring and seeing it dressed in fresh green leaves once more.

Myddelton Square garden

Myddelton Square garden tended to be crowded in the warm weather but was almost deserted today except for a couple of dog walkers.

I walked along the pavement beside the houses looking for the two cats that often peered at us through the open window but there was no sign of them. I haven’t seen them for quite a while and wonder whether they have moved house.

Myddelton Square

This is a view of one side if the square. You can see how dull and sad it looks under grey skies.

Cushions

While in Amwell Street, I couldn’t resist taking a photo of the window display of cushions, as I have done several times before. This time, though, I checked the name of the shop, something I hadn’t done previously. It rejoices in the poetic appelation of Timorous Beasties.

Usually, the motifs on the cushions are all of the same kind, birds or insects, for example, but today’s collection is selection. Most are birds (though each one different) but the middle one shows a bee and, at top left, there is a squirrel. I am tempted to buy one in case they stop showing them in the window!

View from Claremont Square

Just as I reached Claremont Square on the way home, the sun broke through the clouds and illuminated the scene with a pale sunny glow. I just had time to click the shutter before the sun disappeared again. I rather think we shall not see it again today!

I had another appointment today – happily, the last one for now – at the clinic in Hornsey. Once that was done, we could think of going for a little ramble.

Hornsey Road bus stop

We went to the nearest bus stop which is called Hornsey Road, although it is not in Hornsey Road. The names of London bus stops are apt to be confusing until you become used to them. They are typically named after the neatest street that runs into the one on which the stop is sited. Quite often, this road is quite some distance from the bus stop so you can be forgiven for being mystified. Fortunately, all bus stops are also identified by a one- or two-letter code and good route guides use these to avoid confusion.

Aboard the number 4

The bus we took is not the one in the picture but the number 4 that terminates at Blackfriars.

Colourful street art
Photo by Tigger

Travelling by bus, you can entertain yourself by watching the scenery scroll past the windows. Tigger photographed these colourful street art flowers.

One might have thought that curtailed working hours and fewer people in the streets would have led to an upsurge in street art but, from what I have seen, it is not so. Most of the art is old and suffering from dirt and “tags”, so it is nice to see a piece like this, bright and new-looking.

The Black Friar

We left the bus in the vicinity of The Black Friar public house. Built in 1875 and remodelled in 1905 and 1917, it stands on the site of the medieval Dominican monastery, whose black-robed monks gave their name to the district. The pub is on the ground floor and both inside and outside is known for its fine Art Nouveau decor. Like St Pancras Station, when faced with the threat of demolition, it found a champion in the person of poet John Betjeman and, thanks to his intervention, survives to the present day.

The Temperance Drinking Fountain

Near the beginning of Blackfriars Bridge stands the Temperance Drinking Fountain. Dated 1861, it was sculpted by the Wills brothers and represents a Samaritan woman at the well, no doubt a religious trope of some kind. The name reminds us that the Victorian urge to set up drinking fountains was not merely to provide clean water for public but was seen as a way to remove people’s reliance on alcoholic beverages, the other common source of safe drinking.

Queen Victoria confined

At the beginning of Blackfriars Bridge, in the centre of the road, stands Queen Victoria, severely regal in appearance as was her wont. At the moment, the poor dear is confined within a building site, rather an insult to the noble dame.

Blackfriars Railway Bridge

Many of my posts on journeys south describe us on the train on Blackfriars Bridge, which is also Blackfriars Station, so, for a change, here is that bridge and station seen from outside. This is in fact the second bridge and the red pillars that you can see are the remains of the first one. More information on the bridges’ history will be found here and on many other sites.

Blackfriars road bridge

The present bridge for road traffic and pedestrians was opened by Queen Victoria in 1869 (hence her statue at one end). It is not the first bridge, as is recounted here. As you can perhaps see from the photograph, modern disasters have caused certain modifications to be put it place. Firstly, terrorist car attacks, in which motor vehicles have used to run down pedestrians, have led to a solid barrier being built between the road and the pavement. Secondly, Covid-19 and the policy of “social distancing, has led to the pavement being divided into to lanes, one for each direction, by a painted blue line and, at intervals, round notices on the footway reminding us to keep our distance from one another. These are simple and sensible measures but persuading the public to adopt them is an altogether more difficult task…

Artwork, artist unknown

As we made our way down to the Southbank Centre, we spotted this work of art. At least, I assume it’s a work of art. I could find no explanatory label or panel and so the name if the artist and the title if the work remain unknown to me. It seems to represent two annular objects interlinked, like links in a chain but more than that, I cannot say.

PizzaExpress

It was already lunchtime – in fact, well past it – and so, having seen a number of other eateries closed, when we found this branch of PizzaExpress open, we did not hesitate. Theirs may not be the most exciting of restaurants but the quality is consistent and can be relied upon.

Inside PizzaExpress

They led us to a table suitably separated from others and enquired what drinks we wished to have. They also explained that only electronic payments were accepted and no cash.

Order and pay online

On the table was this cardboard notice which seemed to indicate that we could order and pay online, using the QR code to access their site. As we had already encountered a similar system at Wagamama, I was sure we could use it. Think again! Unlike Wagamama’s process which was easy to use and effective, this one was quite frankly a mess. Despite our best efforts, neither of us could get it to work. Either it sent us round in circles or hung up with a spinning symbol showing on screen. I think the staff were accustomed to this as they brought a payment machine to the table with the bill and we used that.

Owl (not real)

The weather had turned wet and the conditions were not really conducive to further rambles so we started walking to where we could catch a bus home. On the way, we spotted this artificial owl, perched on the side of a building. We see quite a few of these as we go about. I can only imagine that people install them mistakenly thinking that they deter pigeons. They don’t, of course. Pigeons are not the brightest intellects among our feathered friends but they are not stupid either. They can tell the difference between a live predator and a lump of cement or plastic. I have seen pigeons quite happily perched next to artificial owls like this one.

Aboard the 341

While we were still st some distance from the bus stop, we saw that our bus was there and people were boarding. We would not reach the stop before the bus left. Nothing daunted, Tigger waved at the driver to wait and we made haste as best we could so as to show willing. He waited and we caught the bus. This is not unusual in London. You might think that in the city everyone is in a hurry and too impatient to wait but bus drivers do in general wait for passengers running for the bus. It is one of the little traits of London that I admire and appreciate.

It has been a while since we had our hair cut and with the possibility of another lockdown hanging over us, we thought we had better have it done while we are able.

First, however, we had some business to see to in the area of Amwell Street. Having done this, we decided to visit a once much frequented locality that we have been forced lately to neglect.

Myddelton’s deli

They once more have tables outside and as the day was sunny, we decided to take our coffee in the open air.

Lots of delicious possibilities
Photo by Tigger

Despite our long neglect, we were made to feel welcome. While our coffee was being made, we cast hungry glances at the stock of food.

Coffee and Portuguese custard tarts

In the end we plumped for Portuguese custard tarts which we consumed with our coffee out in the autumn sunshine.

What’s next for this pub?
Photo by Tigger

We made our way to White Lion Street where we noticed that this pub had closed. We had Sunday lunch here a couple of times when I think it was called the Lord Wolseley. It then acquired the dull name Craft Beer Co and is now closed and nameless. We were amused by notices on the windows. These read “People living upstairs”, presumably to deter anyone from breaking in. What will its next incarnation be? Will it even be a pub? Many pubs have left the trade entirely and become residential properties.

Hair cut here

At the other end of White Lion Street (named after a tavern that once stood here) is the hair-cutting salon which we use. It is a no-frills place with quick and efficient service at £8 a go. (Many gent’s salons now charge £25 or more for a simple trim.)

Passers-by in a time of Covid
Photo by Tigger

From the barber’s, we walked along Islington High Street, making for a certain establishment at the crossroads. Perhaps you guess which one I mean?

Goth boots
Photo by Tigget

We spotted this young lady wearing Goth-style platform-soled boots despite not having any other Goth accoutrements. They look clumsy but I suppose you become accustomed to them.

Jusaka

This is where we were heading – but you guessed, didn’t you? 🙂 Two rounds of coffee in one day isn’t extravagant, is it? 🙂 Then it was off home for lunch.

Just in case you were wondering about the title, I always ask the barber for “A number 4 all over”, that being the size of the clipper head and consequently, the length of the hair after cutting. The result is rather Spartan but, then, it grows again! Here is the result:

“Number 4 all over”

Today started grey but dry though with a promise of rain later.

Shops, Camden High Street

We caught a 214 bus to Camden Town Station and walked through to the upper end of Camden High Street. The lower end, between Camden Town and Mornington Crescent stations, is lined with conventional shops and restaurants but the upper end belongs to the “trendy” or “alternative” world. The shops tend to be open-fronted like oriental bazaars and to be extravagantly decorated, often with oversized 3D models of items that they sell.

Buy your boots here

Shop dummies marshalled on the pavement in front of the shops are also a common sight.

Rainbow flag pedestrian crossings

The pedestrian crossings here are painted in the colours of the rainbow flag.

Dragon, Chinese buffet

This Chinese buffet has a Chinese dragon on its façade. We thought of having lunch here but experience suggests that buffets don’t have much choice for vegetarians and so we looked elsewhere.

Regent’s Canal

Camden High Road crosses over the Regent’s Canal which we photographed from the road bridge. Along the left side of the canal are pubs and coffee bars and on the right side the extensive Camden Lock Market.

The covered market

We went first into the covered market which comprises more or less permanent stalls and boutiques. The stalls are free-standing.

Boutique

The boutiques, like this one, inhabit alcoves. They have shelves for the goods on sale and, though small, can be entered by a few customers at a time.

Can you guess which boutique Tigger was intending to visit? (Clue: it begins with, and sounds like, ‘T’!)

Camden Tea Shop

It was this one, called the Camden Tea Shop. They sell a range of teas and a small number of items of “teaware”, such as teapots and cups.

Tigger’s selection
Photo by Tigger

Tigger explored the stock thoroughly and made her selection. (“Chakra” just happens to be the name of one of her choices. Neither of us indulge in woo-woo beliefs or practices.)

Some outside stalls

There are many more stalls outside, like these, beneath a sculpture or model supposedly of a Zulu. There are food stalls too and in the “old days” (pre-Covid-19), the area would be so crowded that it was difficult to move about. Today, though the stalls were hopefully plying for trade, there were few people about.

Starling hoping to share food
Photo by Tigger

Beside one food stall were tables and a few diners. Some starlings were busily looking for food like this one hoping to share the meal.

Handling goods on the canal
Photo by Tigger

Walking along the canal looking for lunch, we spied this sculpture. I don’t know who the artist is or the official title of the work but I suppose it represents a man loading or unloading crates from a canal barge.

Inside Wagamama

Faute de mieux, we ended up at the local branch of Wagamama, a supposedly Japanese restaurant. Thanks to Covid-19, the place was virtually empty of customers. Nice for us but not so good for the business or employment prospects of the staff.

Wagamama, the menu
Photo by Tigger

They have paper place mats on which is printed the menu. At top left of the menu, you can see a QR code and an empty space beside it. The waiter enters the table number in that space and, when you have finished your meal, you use the QR code on your mobile to access the website where you enter the table number to locate your bill which you then pay electronically, for example using Apple Pay or typing in your credit card details. No money changes hands and no cards are handled, helping to avoid infection.

Jasmin flower tea

To drink, we ordered “jasmin tea” which was probably a mistake in a Japanese restaurant. We should have asked for “green tea” which was what we had on previous visits. What we received was jasmin flower tea. The flavour was very delicate, so delicate in fact as to be virtually undetectable. Live and learn.

Avant Gard’n with vegan “egg
Photo by Tigger

I don’t usually bore you with photos of food but I thought I would show you my main dish because if its curiosity value. It is called “Avant Gard’n” but the detail of interest is that it comes with “vegan egg”. To be honest, the dish was not wonderful and I won’t be ordering it again but it satisfied my curiosity, well, after a fashion. The “yolk” was a gobbet of liquid sauce of some kind. What the white was, I have no idea. It was a tasteless white semi-solid of some kind.

It’s raining

When we emerged from Wagamama, it was raining. Not that we could complain because the forecast had specified rain later and so we were expecting it.

As we had done everything we had intended, the sensible course of action was to take the bus home. And that was exactly what we did.